DFE28JMKGES General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I followed u-tube instructions.
Took off the old switch and put the new one on.

Used ratchet set, and unscrewed old one and screwed in new. Disconnected the wires and plugged in new one.

Pulled out bottom crisper drawers. Removed drawer slides. Removed side plastic panels, then removed back panel which exposed the fan. Removed fan and replaced with new fan. Had to use the heat gun because there was ice buildup on left corner of rear panel. Reassembled in reverse order. There is several excellent videos on You Tube.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

Safety first, unplug fridge. Had to remove the top access panel, which consisted of 5 screws. Got access to the door switches. These are removed from the panel by depressing the plunger on the switch and sliding them out of the retainer. Transferred the wires over to the new switches one for one. Re-assembled. Dispenser works.

I ordered the correct part, the box said it was the correct part and when I opened the box a completely different part was inside. Not only was it the wrong part but it was loosely wrapped with very thin plastic and the hinge was broken off of the lid and laying in the box. I have called and emailed for help and was told no one was available to help because of COVID 19. One email was answered to return the part I would have to pay shipping and the part could not be damaged. Okay, the part was wrong, the part was broken. Now what should I do? Please respond.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Turn off the electrical breaker for the refrigerator. On my unit the ice-maker was inside the left door. On the inside of that door is a plastic door where the ice bin is located. Open both doors and remove the ice bin. Behind the ice bin is the ice-maker. Beneath the ice-maker is a screw holding a plastic cover. Remove the screw and unhook the electrical connections. Next remove the screw for the ice-maker. Remove the ice-maker. Replacement is the exact opposite of removal. Couldn't be easier. Always be careful when putting the screws back. They were two different lengths and head sizes. Turn backward at first to line up the threads. If you strip out the plastic, game over. Good luck

Purchased parts per your diagram and went to a appliance store to see how it was assemble

I followed the directions included with the water filter and it was simple. The only problem I had was not being strong enough to easily remove the old filter. I did accomplish that after a few tries and the rest is history.

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

The replacement part comes as an egg-shaped assembly with a receptacle for the socket. I cut the power to the fridge, although that was probably not necessary. The old assembly could be pried out with a fingernail, and the socket can be removed by pressing a small tab. The socket then slides right into the new assembly, which can then be pressed into place before turning the power back on. All refrigerator lights are then at full strength.

my freezer quit freezing, it would freeze for one day, thaw the next, so I went online, found PARTS SELECT, LOOKED UP MY MODEL #, come to find out it needed three parts to keep my freezer to freeze, first part was a thermistor a small PART took me longer to remove all the covers, and shelving, PULLED THE OLD OUT, CUT THE WIERS TO SIZE, AND REINSTALLED, IT WELL! THAT WASN'T ENOUGH THE FREEZER STILL DIDN'T FREEZE IT THOUT IT WAS A COOL WORMING OVEN, HAD TO INSTALL THE THERMISTOR I, SO I DID, TEN MIN, NOW I THOUGHT THAT WAS IT BECAUSE IT STAYED FROZEN FOR A WEAK, HAVE YOU EVER EATEN SOUPY ICE CREAM? SO BACK TO PARTS SELECT, THIS TIME I BOUGHT ONE MORE PT, THE RUN CAPACITOR, FIVE MIN, THAT/S ALL IT TOOK TO INSTALL. I DID NOT KNOW AT THE TIME YOU NEED THE THREE OF THEM TO RUN THE FREEZER ONE TO KEEP THE TEMP., ONE TO KEEP THE FAN RUNNING THE WAY IT SHOULD, AND THE THIRD TO MAKE SURE THE OTHER TWO KEEP RUNNING. NOW I CAN SET IT AT 4- 5 AND. FREEZE.