DFE28JMKDES General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Left side was broken for about 8 years. Back of glide would fall down about every 4 months. This time the upper basket jammed up on the glide and the freezer drawer would not close. Had to break it to remove the upper basket.

From the time the parts were delivered and installed two Glide Supports, it took a total of 30 minutes. If that long. Before I ordered the part, I made sure I had the socket to fit the nut and that I was able to remove it. I removed the broken one after ordering.

PartSelect was the only website that I could find that carried the part.

Ordered a replacement ice maker. Simple to remove old unit one screw and one screw to remove wire cover to unplug. Replacement unit looked a little different as the left side of the new unit had various ridges which did not allow a proper fit into ice making box. After examining old unit and new I swapped the old left cover with new left cover and unit fit perfectly and it is working correctly. I suggest adding a quick note about the upgraded part as it may not fit properly and the side cover may have to swapped out.

Removed all containers from the freezer,
Removed lower freezer door, 3 bolts on each side.
Removed one front screw on the ice maker, unplugged two connectors on slide off unit
Removed covers on the old ice maker and installed on the new one
Installed the new ice maker in reverse of the removal process

Inspected the old ice maker and found the motor drive gear had missing teeth; I believe that the heater on the ice maker was failing causing a strain on the drive gears

Exposed evap defrosted with heat gun exposed defrost element defrost termination switch ok therminster didn’t check out the thermistor sends the signal to logic panel then run the the freezer ice machine and refer temps it took 24 hours before the system starting to show results freezer compartment 10 below ice compartment 0 degrees refer temp 37 degrees one refrigerant three different temps system is running at optimum performance 450.00 $ service call the thing with GE appliances there is no wiring diagram .thankyou parts select .ill use you on all domestic service calls.

Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

Replaced door circuit board. Vert simple to do. Problem was not solved! Replaced the main board with advice of ge tech. problem not solved. Currently waiting for the Tech to reappear. Not a happy person

Locate the light that is completely out, remove the assembly. Unplug the wire harness in the back. Plug in the new assembly and snap into place in the cabinet.

Freezer door removed with two allen screws.

Snap filter into place while holding the filter slightly away from the refrig. When filter snaps into place, push it towards refrig into place.

Our old fridge. broke down. It took 2 months to finally settle with warranty people. 2 months with out main fridge. We bought this one and found a broken shelf. Not wanting to go through warranty people again, I went to partselect and got the right parts right away! Happy camper!

took out shelves and removed the back plate my removing 2 screws with a nutdriver.removed the old defrost timer and defrost heater which was really easy.then installed the new ones.the video i watched on the website was really helpfull.

1. Removed and tested defrost heater, tests good. 2. Reinstalled defrost heater. 3. Removed and tested defrost over-temperature sensor, tests good. 4. Reinstalled over-temperature sensor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 5. Removed the control printed circuit board and checked for blown fuse's, fuse's are all good. 6. Removed the defrost relay from the printed circuit board using soldering iron, bench tested the relay, it is good. 7. Soldered defrost relay back onto the circuit board, and reinstalled control board. 8. Removed and bench tested evaporator thermistor, the resistance is out of specification, ordered new thermister. 9. Installed new thermistor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 10. Re-assembled refrigerator. 11. Installed temperature monitoring and recording instrumentation for 72 hour test. The defrost cycle is running correctly with a defrost termination temperature of around 90 deg-f. The defrost cycle ran twice while running the 72 hour test. 11. Removed test instrumentation and Put the unit back into service, The thermistor was the culprit. I bought the right part on the first shot, nice.

changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.