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DE640ADD2 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the DE640ADD2
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The dryer was over-heating, the vents had been cleaned to it wasn't the vent, but something wrong with the dryer. The Thermal Limiter was a cheap try to see if it would fix the problem.
The hardest part was getting to the part and removing it and putting it back on. The schematics that you had on your website helped us locate where it needed to go and, hopefully, that will solve our problem.
Parts Used:
Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
  • William from Pardeeville, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Wrench set
7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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female part of door clasp broke
All I did was push the new part into the machine! So easy!
Parts Used:
Door Catch
  • Tammy from St. Peters, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Cycle select knob had snapped at the base.
First i used pliers to remove old knob from the selecting mount. New knob slid right into place on the selecting mount. Whole job took less then a minute.
Parts Used:
Timer Knob
  • Donald from Quaker town, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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my mother dryer was leaving marks on the clothes and squeaking.
1 Unplug the dryer and Raise top up by releasing the clips and fold back to expose the drum. 2. Take Phillips head screw driver and remove two screws inside the front dryer panel and then take flathead screwdriver to pop out both sides and set aside. 3. Lay on your stomach and reach inside to the belt pulley and push right so the belt will release then stand to either side of dryer and grab the belt and lift the drum up out of its bracket. 4. Go to the front and pull the drum out and replace the Rear Drum Bearing Kit . 5. Grab the front panel and remove the Top dryer guide and replace to match evenly with the bottom dryer guide by cutting at least 1/8 -1/4" from felt and use High temp adhesive to glue down. 6. Replace everything in order that was taken apart and reconnect electrical plug and start dryer.
Parts Used:
Upper Drum Glide Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Jonathan from GAINESVILLE, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Intermittent squealing noise
I've replaced the rear plastic bearing on this dryer twice, so I am familiar with taking the unit apart. After replacing the bearing in December, the machine still made noise (which had been masked by how loud the bearing was). The belt didn't look so great and it's 13 years old, so I ordered one and a new idler pulley assembly.

First, I disconnected the power and pulled it out for access. Using a large blade screwdriver, popped the cover open from the two clips in front. Be sure to support the top cover when you open it on the tabs or they will bend - I propped it against the wall. I disconnected the two wires that go to the door switch, and then removed the two screws that hold the front panel and door in place and lifted/opened that and removed the front panel and set it aside.

Next, I removed the back access grill (2 screws) and popped the belt off the idler by relieving the tension on the belt. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the idler pivot bolt and idler arm assembly. I installed the new idler arm assembly in its place and reattached the spring.

Moving to the front of the dryer, I lifted the drum off the blower housing on which it was resting and took off the belt through the front of the dryer. I then replaced the belt in reverse. Back through the access panel on the rear, I put the new belt on the motor and idler.

Be sure to check that there are no flips in the belt. I rotate the drum by hand a couple of revolutions to be certain.

I then reinstalled the front cover and door, reconnected the door switch, replaced the access panel and put the cover back down, popping the clips into place.

Put the dryer back in place, reconnected the exhaust and plugged it in. Voila - quiet dryer.

As an aside, I also took the time to clean the lint out of the blower and exhaust with a vacuum cleaner hose.
Parts Used:
Drum Belt Idler Pulley Assembly
  • Peter from Middletown, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Belt broke and the pulley broke.
I unplugged the dryer. Undid the top by taking out 2 screws and mounts on each side of the back. There were two screws in the front panel that had to be removed. One on each side. Then I took the two wires off the killer switch on the door. Marking which was top and which was bottom. Then I removed the front panel. Then I undid the drum which had 3 screws in. I took out the drum to find the problem. I replaced the drum putting the belt on. Then I took off the back panel at the bottom of the dryer to get at the idler arm. Took off the spring and unhooked the arm. I put the new arm on and replaced the spring. I then put the belt on to the pulley and closed up the back panel. I put back the front panel. I put the top back on. I plugged it back in and turned it on and it worked!
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Assembly
  • Donald from Windber, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Screeching noise under load
I basically followed the video instructions on your website. Pretty simple but ran into an issue pre-threading the 3 self taping screws into the spindle bearing. The screws provided were blunt on the end and did not tap easily at all. I used the existing screws that were much more "sharp" and worked much better. Also, the new screws were Philips drive and due to the amount of torque trying to self tap nearly stripped them out. The old sharper screws were square drive which had a better bite. So basically, I used the old screws to self tap and then used the new screws for the final installation.
It took a long time to clean all the lint out from the inside of the dryer. The motor was completely embedded with lint and animal hair. You may want to suggest that a good cleaning may be needed so bring a shop vac...and also something to carefully pick the lint balls out from around the motor armature and bearing area. Overall the video instructions were really a big help!
Parts Used:
Drum Belt Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • John from WESTLAKE, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Squeeling noise during operation.
Almost exactly as per the videos available on the PartSelect web site. The only additional information that would help is that the vent on the back of the unit can be removed to allow for access to the belt spring pulley. This avoids having to reach around from the front of the unit and feel your way to remove and re-install the belt.
Parts Used:
Drum Belt Upper Drum Glide Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • John from Seeley Lake, MT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Temperture switch broke
Unplugged the drier, a couple of screws, remove the wires (take a picture of the wires with your cell phone to remember how they go back, twist out the thermostat. Installation is the reverse. A piece of cake.
Parts Used:
Temperature Switch
  • Steve from Merrick, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Bearing wore out in original idler pulley
Removed rear inspection plate, removed pulley spring and one hex bolt, replaced in reverse order. Very simple removal and install for this. Glad to see that Part Select still had parts for this 22 year old drier.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Assembly
  • Paul from Placerville, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Rust Stains on clothes in dryer
1. Slid putty knife under each side of front of dryer to release lid.
2. Removed 2 screws from front of drum to release door assembly.
3. Removed wires from door switch.
3. Cleaned lint out of inside of dryer.
4. Removed old felt seals, upper & lower.
5. Removed old glue with goof off type remover.
6. Glued new seals on & held then in place with clothes pins. (there was enough glue in the tube that came with the upper glide for both seals)
7. Put dryer back together.
**Ensure you verify the correct felt seal pieces with the model number of your dryer, usually on inside of door.
Parts Used:
Upper Drum Glide Front Drum Seal
  • Ryan from Jeffersonville, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Helping me with laundry, my mom pulled off the timer knob, snapping it off so it could no longer be used
The part number was easy to find, thanks to the schematics provided on your site. When the package arrived (faster than expected!) I simply had to replace the one which had broken off. It fit perfectly!
Parts Used:
Timer Knob
  • Nancy from Gaithersburg, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Knob on dryer broke
Just removed the knob by hand and replaced. I couldn't find the part number on internet but your site showed the knobs for this dryer. The picture was the exact same as mine, eventhough it had a different part number so I ordered it. IT came in one day and was exactly the same. Thanks for the good pictures so I could compare the part.
Parts Used:
Timer Knob
  • Sharon from Springfield, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Lint screen had torn
For me it wasn't even a repair, but rather, open the package, take out and discard the old lint tray and pop the new one in! Done. I didn't have to replace the frame. I would like to comment on how easy ordering was from partselect.com and how quickly the part arrived. Very satisfied customer! Thank you!
Parts Used:
Lint Screen and Frame
  • Luann from Huntersville, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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The lint screen had tears on it which could cause a serious problem, possibly a fire.
I unscrewed the old the lint screen FRAME and easily removed it, replacing it with the new one. The new lint -- SCREEN -- just needed to be squeezed here and there, and molded into a better shape. The screen itself, arrived flattened on the bottom, causing it to be too wide and difficult to remove from the frame. I easily molded it with my hands into the shape of the previous one and it slipped right into place. ( Shaped like an oval, flexible sack.) VERY easy!
Parts Used:
Lint Screen and Frame
  • Joyce from North Dighton, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the DE640ADD2
46 - 60 of 380