DE18CM Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the DE18CM
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Drum would not turn, drive motor humming loudly and unable to turn drum/blower wheel
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from REDONDO BEACH, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The repair video is terrific and many others here have thoroughly described the steps involved to replace the drive motor.

The biggest hurdle for me was that the motor came with a new switch that required a different wiring configuration. No wiring diagram was included. Several others had posted questions about wiring in the Q&A and unfortunately PartSelect kept copy/pasting the same confusing and incomplete answer over and over:

"The Yellow goes to T6, Red to T5 Black to T2, blue to T1 and the white you will remove the blue jumper lead between the switch terminal 4 and 1/4" protector tab, connect the grey harness lead to the 1/4" protector tab."

Reading that doesn't tell me what to do with the white wire, doesn't address that my blue and white wires were crimped into the same connector from the factory, doesn't address that I had 2 black wires crimped into the same connector from the factory, and doesn't address a factory ground wire that connected the frame of the OEM motor to the bracket that the motor sits in.

With all the other excellent info supplied by PartSelect, this was surprising and frustrating. The sales dept ignored an emailed question from me, and the Q&A section didn't allow me to post a question.

Searching the internet, I found a wiring diagram on aceappliancesd dot com that addressed my dryer's OEM wiring configuration. Here's what I ended up with:

TI - Blue and white, crimped together into a single connector
T2 - Black & black, crimped together into a single connector (the wiring diagram I found said this should be black & brown, but they both look black to me)
T5 - Red
T6 - Yellow
1/4" Thermal protector tab - Grey (from the harness)

The new motor switch had a grounding tab with nothing connected to it. I removed the screw holding that tab into the switch and connected the (also grey) OEM short ground wire from the motor frame to the mounting bracket.

I had to cut 2 of the pieces of tape holding the OEM wiring harness together in order to get enough slack for all the connections to reach. If you do this too, make sure all the wires are still clear of the moving parts and the hot bits. You may need to retape the wires together at a different location to keep things tidy.

I also laid the belt over the drum and put 2 pieces of tape over it to hold it in place while I got the drum positioned, then I reached through the back access panel to loop the belt around the motor pulley and idler. Once that's done, just reach over the top of the drum and peel the tape off. I found that much easier than trying to loop the belt by reaching through and past the drum.
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Squeaking noise
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Daphne, AL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I had replaced belt, but the noise continued. Ordered new rollers and washer. Removed the front panel by tipping the dryer back against the wall and removing two screws at the bottom of the panel. Tipping the dryer makes it easy to remove the front panel. Removed the front drum support by removing four (4) screws. I was then able to just move the drum enough to have access to the rollers. Didn't even have to remove the belt. Replaced the rollers. Needed special pliers to remove and replace the retaining rings. Put the drum back into position and mounted the front drum support. Tightened four screws and then put the front panel back on. Plugged it in and tested it. Problem solved. Took about 35 minutes. Thanks
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One of the roller shafts was worn
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Springfield, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced both rollers,shafts, bearings and snap rings.
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Button to start dryer
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Loretta E. from Miamisburg, OH
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!
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dryer filter screen broken
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • suzanne from Ottawa, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I didn't think it would fit as it looked bigger then the old one, I called the service department and they were very helpful. They made note of the fact that I had called with questions in case I had to call again, but it worked, and no one laughed at me. It was very nice of them. Thank you for all the help
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Squealling clothes dryer.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Port Jefferson, NY
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Undid two screws in lower front of dryer and popped off front. Removed screws holding lint screen duct and brackets supporting tumbler and removed duct and tumbler quite easily. Pulled, cleaned and oiled rear rollers, replaced front glides, and thoroughly cleaned exhaust duct of lint. Put new belt into position on the roller before sl iding tumbler back in, then pulled belt over tumbler as it went in. Be careful to follow belt path directions correctly.
Key to this repair was obtaining the parts so easily from Parts Select.com. Ordered at 2pm and had them 2pm the following day. Unbelievable! These machines are relatively simple to keep running when the parts are available so easily. Thanks for great service.
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electric dryer stopped heating - the thermostat got very hot
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ignas from Midpines, CA
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find whe re they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.
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Old lint filter was worn out
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ellen from Sharon, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
No tools required, just insert the new lint filter in place of the old one. My dryer is about 20 years old. I think I was lucky to even be able to find a replacement lint filter.
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The door latch had broken, and it was time for a new lint filter.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joanna from Mantua, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The directions for the door latch kit told you to take the front of the washer apart to remove the old latch. But in my case the latch was broken in such a way that was not necessary. The new part just popped into place! No more fridge magnets holding the door closed!!!

And the new lint filter is great, the old one was so gu nked up with old lint it was becoming difficult to clean.

I don't really know how old my dryer is, I purchased it used about 3 years ago.
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old lint filter had a tear in it.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Farrell from Le Mars, IA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Just pulled out the old filter and inserted the new one. went great and fit good.
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Old lint filter had a hole in it about the size of a thumb
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rebecca from Guthrie Center, IA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Took longer to open the box that it did to drop the new lint filter into the dryer. Washed a load of clothes and the new dryer filter worked great

Thanks.

R. Bonker
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front glides wore out
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • james from WOODBURN, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed instruction video
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Warn out foot pads
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from Granada Hills, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Pried off old pads - used hammer to tap on new pads.

Locating replacement parts was the problem until I found partselect.com
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Lint Filter had a hole on it.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eduardo from Miami, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I bought a new one and replaced it.
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Dryer making strange thumping noise
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from New Bern, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed back panel of machine which exposed badly worn idler pulley. Have had problem before on another dryer so I was sure what problem was before I started. Removed snap washer and cloth washer and then bad pulley.(It was very worn and wobbly).Cleaned shaft with small piece of emery paper and put two drops of oil on shaft and replaced o ld pulley with new one.Put back washer and snap washer.Drive belt had slipped away from its proper position so I had to remove the front panel of the dryer to place the belt back and realign it on the drum and around the new pulley and the motor drive shaft. Not really that difficult.....Machine now runs like it's brand new.....
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All Instructions for the DE18CM
91 - 105 of 806