DDC4387PD General Electric Dryer - Instructions
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Dryer wouldn't heat
I watched Youtube videos on how to troubleshoot the dryer but I did not go through all the testing of the fuses and the heat sensor. I did not want to take the dryer apart if I didn't have to. I turned on the dryer and looked into the bottom grate and saw no glow from the igniter (it should be very bright) so I started there. (The Youtube videos test the igniter last). Unplug the dryer. Turn off the gas. Pry off the grate. Unplug the igniter connector and set the multimeter to tone on continuity. There was no tone so it was bad. I used a flashlight that I put inside next to the gas valve to see. Remove the top flat cover on the burner assembly, 2 screws. (Had to do all this laying on my belly in front of the dryer. Very uncomfortable.) Remove the old igniter from the clamp. It fell apart as I took it out. Now the tricky part: The clamp is very tight and the igniter is delicate. I tried to slide it in from the top holding it between my index and middle finger and lining up the slots for the igniter 'wings'. I struggled with that until many-swear-words-later, I decided to slide the igniter in sideways. Put the 'wing' into the clamp's left side opening and then gently but firmly squeezed the 'barrel' into the clamp. It worked. Plug in igniter plug, put burner cover back on carefully without banging igniter, turn on gas, plug in dryer. Turn on dryer. Igniter should be very bright when it lights. It takes a little while to heat up the heat sensor that will open the gas valve and the burner should light.
Parts Used:
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Frances from Cicero, NY
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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driver belt old worn out broke
The repair for the average untrained mechanicslly inclined " first off google directions/instruction picture step by step " we took off the wrong part which made this job difficult there is a part on the back that was removed prior to guided directions, called parts select they are awesome"our belt was delivered the next day on a 3 day weekend I was suprised second correct part sent anyone who took on this job , they will appreciatte all this . the belt was fairly easy to repair just do as directed follow guidelines. difficulty detaching a part that never should be"pain in the a" order your part from this company they rock" and picture guide and specific direction guideline @ this dryer has well outlived the money spent still kicking strong after several years of use hotpoint dryer
Parts Used:
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Leland from San Diego, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Dryer would not start and the smell of an electrical part burning.
What to do if you have a load of wet laundry at 23:00, the dryer won’t start, and you have no spare start switch.
Removed rear access panel and discovered the wire from terminal #2 (goes to heater coils) on the start switch had melted and disconnected. The start switch showed signs of overheating but not melted. Removed the switch and found the switch’s actuator button was jammed in the ‘in’ position (dryer won't start). The switch was a friendly one in that it was possible to disassemble it. Most switches today are molded/glued together, but this one could be pried apart. The contacts inside were still in fair condition and, after dressing them, the switch was reassembled. The actuator button had a burr that was filed off and the switch action worked fine. All of the 1/4" male QC contacts on the switch were cleaned with a wire brush. The burned wire was cut back about 6” and a new piece of 14ga wire was spliced in with a wire nut. A new 1/4” QC terminal was crimped to the wire and all wires were re-attached to the switch.
This fix would probably last for a long time to come, but I bought a new switch and installed it and will keep the old switch as a backup.
p.s. The load of laundry was dry by 02:00.
Removed rear access panel and discovered the wire from terminal #2 (goes to heater coils) on the start switch had melted and disconnected. The start switch showed signs of overheating but not melted. Removed the switch and found the switch’s actuator button was jammed in the ‘in’ position (dryer won't start). The switch was a friendly one in that it was possible to disassemble it. Most switches today are molded/glued together, but this one could be pried apart. The contacts inside were still in fair condition and, after dressing them, the switch was reassembled. The actuator button had a burr that was filed off and the switch action worked fine. All of the 1/4" male QC contacts on the switch were cleaned with a wire brush. The burned wire was cut back about 6” and a new piece of 14ga wire was spliced in with a wire nut. A new 1/4” QC terminal was crimped to the wire and all wires were re-attached to the switch.
This fix would probably last for a long time to come, but I bought a new switch and installed it and will keep the old switch as a backup.
p.s. The load of laundry was dry by 02:00.
Parts Used:
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Randy from FREMONT, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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original equipment belt-drive broke
disassembled chassis of dryer, unbolted top, lifted top to expose drum. bolted top back on. resumed repair next morning. unbolted top. lifted drum (it moved up and down about 1 inch) and got new belt around it. rebolted top down. tipped dryer to its back. unbolted and removed panel at bottom, exposing drive motor and tensioner spring. positioned belt around drive motor spindle and tensioner spring. replaced panel. reconnected dryer to electricity. reconnected gas using new flexible connector.
Parts Used:
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james from chicago, IL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
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The main symptom was a burning smell that got on the clothes and the dryer was somewhat louder than it had been.
Researching on the web I thought the trouble might be lint buildup or trouble w/ one of the parts involved in spinning the drum. However I cleaned out all the lint and replaced the belt and idler pulley and this didn't improve the smell (drum bearing was fine). I then concluded the trouble was the motor. Running the motor w/o the drum in place confirmed this was where the noise/smell was coming from. Replacing the motor was fiddly--I had to remove the clip holding the motor (pried the top w/ a screwdriver), wires (made a diagram so as to put back in same order, they were hard to get off--a pliers did the job), clamps holding the motor on the duct, the motor mount, the duct, the fan. Putting all this back together took a while (not hard just fiddly). Tested the motor w/out the drum in place and it sounded fine. Put the drum and back/front/top panels back and the dryer runs fine now. All parts came quickly and exactly matched the parts in my 1993 Hotpoint dryer. As others have said the pulley kit is not needed--these are included w/ the motor. BTW I am a 53-year-old lady. Thanks to all who took the time to write up their experiences--big help!!
Parts Used:
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Kristin from Bellevue, WA
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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