DDC0580VEL General Electric Dryer - Instructions
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Old filter screen was torn in several places over years of use.
Removed old lint filter and replaced with new one. Was impressed with the fast delivery.
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Barbara from Bordentown, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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The belt that turn dryer drum ; broke
unplugged dryer,removed air duct,,remove( top of dryer) by removing the two back screws.... removed two screws under (fornt top lid),laid top to the side. ...Now remove ( front of dryer) remove,two screws near the( top on the inside)...lean dryer back, and remove outsidescrews at the bottom)..the front should come off. ..located small square opening in the back of the dryer release clamp from drum ,...put belt around drum... put drum and dryer back together...(relace any electrical wires removed if any..remove (rear bottom plug panel)..you can now see the lower inside of dryer....make sure belt is level on drum by rotating...place belt on lower pully,... lift tension(spring pully) on to belt.. replace cover..
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james from dayton, OH
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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loud squeeking noise when dryer was runnig
nd removed it from the unit.
5. replaced drum bearings
6. reassembled everything in the same order I took it off.
Be sure to mark any wires you may disconnect to ensure you connect them back correctly.
Was a bit frustrating at times, but made it through and there is no more squeek.
5. replaced drum bearings
6. reassembled everything in the same order I took it off.
Be sure to mark any wires you may disconnect to ensure you connect them back correctly.
Was a bit frustrating at times, but made it through and there is no more squeek.
Parts Used:
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Joel from Greenville, IL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
0 of 2 people
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After Taking The Dryer Apart, I Can't Find These Parts .
After taking the dryer apart and not finding anything that looks like the one I have in this box that I ordered, I got the right part and dryer is working find.
Parts Used:
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joanne from north palm springs, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
0 of 3 people
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Lint trap screen had a gash.
Deftly removed the old lint trap and placed the new frame in place. It worked perfectly. Hands only repair.
Parts Used:
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Barbara from Palm Beach Gardens, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Broken belt
I didn't know what was wrong at first, only that the dryer would not start. I bought it used so had no fear of taking it apart to diagnose. Found the broken belt inside, ordered a replacement, installed the new belt, then crossed my fingers. Was pleasantly surprised that was all that was wrong and that for less than $20, including shipping, a few hours of my time, and a little help from YouTube videos the dryer is working again!
Parts Used:
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Kevin from Simi Valley, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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driver belt old worn out broke
The repair for the average untrained mechanicslly inclined " first off google directions/instruction picture step by step " we took off the wrong part which made this job difficult there is a part on the back that was removed prior to guided directions, called parts select they are awesome"our belt was delivered the next day on a 3 day weekend I was suprised second correct part sent anyone who took on this job , they will appreciatte all this . the belt was fairly easy to repair just do as directed follow guidelines. difficulty detaching a part that never should be"pain in the a" order your part from this company they rock" and picture guide and specific direction guideline @ this dryer has well outlived the money spent still kicking strong after several years of use hotpoint dryer
Parts Used:
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Leland from San Diego, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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No heat
Change the coil by removing the cotter pin around drum in the back I accidently removed the 3 star bits and the front and it was hard getting back together. The coils are easy to change, but found that the coil wasn't the issue it was the cyclical thermosat underneath the lint catcher in front. The part (heater coil) works better than the older one, so I guess it wasn't a complete screw up. I read up on a few others and think I should have check thermostat first oops. good luck
Parts Used:
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Malcolm from wolfeboro, NH
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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idler pulley broken
Pop off the old, pop on the new. I did it with one hand, the 'hard' part was putting the access panal back on.
Parts Used:
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James from Pottsville, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
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broken belt
unscrewed and lifted top of dryer put belt around drum closed top put belt around motor pulley and belt tensioner and finished.( remember to unplug unit before working on it.)
Parts Used:
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Dennis from Hamburg, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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bearigs,belt squeak
Unscrewed the top lid screws located in door opening.Removed lid.Unscrewed the front cover screws located at top corners of cover, underneath where the top lid was.Pulled out drum,removing belt at same time.Removed the rear bearing unit,installed new one.Really easy.Took front bearing off front cover,it just snaps on.Installed new bearing,with 4 new slides.Reassembled machine,replacing old belt at the same time.Done.It really is that easy.Spent more time cleaning lint out of dryer interior than actual mechanical work,I think.
Parts Used:
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TIM from NORTH AURORA, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer Squeeky
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Elbert from LAWTEY, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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The dryer was getting abnormally hot.
My General Electric clothes dryer (model DDE7206RAL) was running to hot. I went on the internet and goggled “General Electric clothes dryer gets to hot”. This led me to the “partselect.com” website which listed two possibilities for a fix along with a schematic of the dryer. I ordered both parts: 1) high limit thermostat – part WE4X584 which is listed as #507 on the schematic and 2) Thermostat- limit 145-15 listed as part #315 on the schematic. Replacing these parts is an easy fix. It took me about an hour to replace both parts. I can do it a second time in 15 minutes.
I only needed two tools and a flashlight to replace both parts. I unplugged the dryer. I opened up the dryer door to access the four screws that held the hinged dryer top. I used a Craftsman TORX T15 screwdriver to take out the four screws then lifted the hinged top to expose the #507 high limit thermostat (back right on the exposed drum). The thermostat is designed so that it can not be replaced in the wrong position. This thermostat is held in place with two ¼ inch screws. I took out the old thermostat and then replaced the electrical contacts one by one as I removed them from the old thermostat to the new thermostat and then replaced the new sensor with the ¼ screws. I then closed the dryer lid and replaced the four screws that secured the lid.
The part #315 (thermostat-limit 145-15) is accessed from where you put the cloths into the dryer. The thermostat part that senses the temperature are exposed inside the drum but the actual location of the sensors are underneath the lint filter and covered by part #305. Part #315 is held in place by two screws located on the inside of the drum.
Open the dryer door and remove the lint screen. Stick your head in the dryer to see two thermostats sensors (parts #315 and #316). Part #315 is the one on the left as you look down at the two thermostats sensors. You will see four screws inside the dryer drum. Take out only the top two screws inside the dryer using the TORX T15 screwdriver. Then the cover (part #305 on the schematic) can be lifted out from under where the lint screen had been positioned. REMOVE ANY LINT FROM THE EXPOSED screws which are held in place by part #311 clips on the schematic. Then remove the bottom left screw (the other screw holding the #315) from inside the drum while holding the #311 clip located underneath the lift screen ( I suggest that you put a piece of duct tape on the #311 clip to keep it from falling as you loosen up the screw from inside the dryer drum.) The old thermostat is now free and can be lifted out from underneath where the lint screen had been positioned. The thermostat #315 has a marking on the original and the replacement. I just replaced the new with the same relative markings positions that were on the old #315 and the same for the electrical connections. The hardest part of this replacement was putting in the new #315 bottom left screw. I had to put a piece of tape on the #311 clip to start the replacement of the bottom left screw then I removed the tape after the bottom left screw had been replaced. After that was in place it was just a matter of replacing the cover (part #305- the top two screws from inside the drum) and the lint screen.
The dryer worked perfectly the next run of dirty clothes. $27 plus postage. What a deal.
I only needed two tools and a flashlight to replace both parts. I unplugged the dryer. I opened up the dryer door to access the four screws that held the hinged dryer top. I used a Craftsman TORX T15 screwdriver to take out the four screws then lifted the hinged top to expose the #507 high limit thermostat (back right on the exposed drum). The thermostat is designed so that it can not be replaced in the wrong position. This thermostat is held in place with two ¼ inch screws. I took out the old thermostat and then replaced the electrical contacts one by one as I removed them from the old thermostat to the new thermostat and then replaced the new sensor with the ¼ screws. I then closed the dryer lid and replaced the four screws that secured the lid.
The part #315 (thermostat-limit 145-15) is accessed from where you put the cloths into the dryer. The thermostat part that senses the temperature are exposed inside the drum but the actual location of the sensors are underneath the lint filter and covered by part #305. Part #315 is held in place by two screws located on the inside of the drum.
Open the dryer door and remove the lint screen. Stick your head in the dryer to see two thermostats sensors (parts #315 and #316). Part #315 is the one on the left as you look down at the two thermostats sensors. You will see four screws inside the dryer drum. Take out only the top two screws inside the dryer using the TORX T15 screwdriver. Then the cover (part #305 on the schematic) can be lifted out from under where the lint screen had been positioned. REMOVE ANY LINT FROM THE EXPOSED screws which are held in place by part #311 clips on the schematic. Then remove the bottom left screw (the other screw holding the #315) from inside the drum while holding the #311 clip located underneath the lift screen ( I suggest that you put a piece of duct tape on the #311 clip to keep it from falling as you loosen up the screw from inside the dryer drum.) The old thermostat is now free and can be lifted out from underneath where the lint screen had been positioned. The thermostat #315 has a marking on the original and the replacement. I just replaced the new with the same relative markings positions that were on the old #315 and the same for the electrical connections. The hardest part of this replacement was putting in the new #315 bottom left screw. I had to put a piece of tape on the #311 clip to start the replacement of the bottom left screw then I removed the tape after the bottom left screw had been replaced. After that was in place it was just a matter of replacing the cover (part #305- the top two screws from inside the drum) and the lint screen.
The dryer worked perfectly the next run of dirty clothes. $27 plus postage. What a deal.
Parts Used:
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Raymond from Toms River, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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drum bearing shot
sort of followed instructions, would have beenhelpfull if they told me I HAD TO REACH INTO THE MOUTH OF A SABRE TOOTHED TIGER to install the new belt.
Parts Used:
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Dennis from Yakima, WA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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sometimes it would get hot
remove two bolts in back on the top two corners. four tiny screws right inside the door. the top comes off with the wires still attached. looking down from the back on the left side of the dryer there is the high limit thermostat two wires and two tiny bolts and it is out; it is very tight. The thermostat- limit 145-15 is located in the lint trap. top is off looking down the front of the dryer there are two bolts remove those pull up on the whole front move it off to the side open door remove the ring by tiny screws and lint trap. you can see the nose of the thermostat remove three screws that is holding a metal cover on and thermostat in place. Remember don`t lose a little metal clip for one of the screws it is tight space. Put everything back together and your done
Parts Used:
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Chris from Yelm, WA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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