DBVH520GJ1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Replaced front plastic bearing and bearing slides for less than $90.00. The repairman from Sears said it would cost at least $300.00 in parts plus labor to repair it, he suggested buying a new dryer (what an idiot). This was a very easy repair, I found instructions on YouTube. 15 minutes and a Phillips’s screwdriver is all that it took. The dryer runs perfectly with no shudder or squeal.

Pull the two scews to release the top of the cabinet. Pull the two screws to release the face of the cabinet and tilt out.
Take the old slide out and install the new ones.
Put it back together.
No more squeeks
My wife thinks I'm a genius...

I followed the very easy YouTube video and got the three tools I needed before beginning. I started with removing the parts of the dryer and that was extremely simple by following the steps in the video. Took the door off last, located the parts that need replaced that didn't require any tools at all. Then put all the parts of the dryer back on in the order I removed them. The entire process was about 25 minutes but I would say I spent more time really cleaning the dryer and lint build up than actually doing the repair. Video was super thorough and easy to follow, I've never attempted any kind of repair of an appliance and I'm extremely happy that I had the video and the parts that were recommended to fix my problem, were spot on. Saved me hundreds of dollars and time. Thank you so much!

Son found out where the bulb was by using YouTube. I googled lamp for model number and your website came up. I ordered the part, it arrived promptly, and my son installed it.

Opened dryer door and removed two screws that held front of top panel on. Lifted top panel off and removed two screws that held front panel to side panels. Tipped front panel forward and replaced all four slides. Cleaned everything off and put back together. Works great again. Thanks for this site and for others that have done these repairs before and posted their stories.

UNPLUG the dryer. I removed the top panel by removing the two screws at the top of the dryer door. There are some hooks toward the back of the top panel, so you'll need to slide it to the left to get it off. The front panel needs to be removed by removing two screws just inside the top left and right corners. Lift and set it aside. I didn't disconnect the door wiring, but you can if you need to do so. I just spun the front panel to the left and out of the way. With the drum exposed, I confirmed the belt was broken. I replaced the belt, then the front panel and top panel. While I was inside the dryer, I did a through cleaning with the vacuum to get all the lint.

The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.

Replaced High limit thermostat per video on the website. However, the flange of new thermostat is flat, while chassis it mounts on is round to conform to drum of dryer. So new thermostat was not flush with chassis. Dryer did not shut off early (that problem solved), but instead continued to dry clothes beyond time necessary. Note that old thermostat had one side of flange slightly bent and probably more flush with chassis, and better able to sense when hot temperatures were reached. I dismantled dryer again, slightly bent new flange, re-installed. Seems to work better now .

I replaced the drum bearing slides and also the main front drum bearing. First, disconnect the electric. Then I removed the two screws inside the door that attach the top cover, removed the top cover, removed two screws that attach the front cover, lift up the front cover and pivot it to the left leaving the wiring attached, removed the front bearing assembly by pulling it out at the top and then up, installed the new front bearing ring and snap it into place, installed the drum bearing slides, reinstalled the front cover, reinstalled the top cover, and tested the drum by turning it by hand first and then under power. The whole operation took less than 15 minutes....

I used the PartSelect website to diagnose the problem (three of the four drum bearing slides were completely gone, and the top bearing was very worn), and then used the video instructions on the site to discover that I could most likely do these repairs myself, though I’m not especially handy. The repairs were actually quite easy — I removed the top cover, disconnected the control panel, and removed the front door assembly, then replaced the top bearing and the duct felt seal. I then inserted the new bearing slides into the top bearing, re-attached the front door assembly, re-attached the control panel and top cover, and was done! It works like new! It took me 2 days to receive the parts with normal shipping (ordered Wednesday, received Friday), and it took less than an hour to complete all the repairs, including cleaning the door assembly, vents, etc. Based on estimates I received from local repair services, I saved at least $300.00. Well worth an hour of my time! Great site, service, and instructions!

Easy repair, but did take a little longer than anticipated due to the extra cleaning that I did while the dryer was disassembled (highly recommend). First, unplug the power cord. Then, open the door, and locate the two screws in the upper corners, and remove. This will allow you to remove the top cover. Be careful and work the top panel up and down to loosen the control panel tabs, and set aside top panel. Next, remove the two screws located near the top on the inside of the front panel. Removing these two screws will allow you to lean the front panel forward, lift up, releasing the tabs holding the bottom of the panel. Be careful when you pull the front panel from the dryer as you will need to lift the drum off of the front bearing which is attached to the front panel as it is removed. You will also need to use your needle nose pliers to remove the wires prior to setting the panel aside. The wires are straight forward and power the light at the top, and the safety door switch. I always take a picture with my phone's camera just to validate when I re-connect them. Reaching underneath the drum you will be able to feel the belt and belt tensioner pulley. With both hands under the drum, use one hand to push the pulley to the right, releasing tension on the belt. Move the belt out of the groove, and let it hang freely. Now from the top of the drum, bump the drum to loosen, and remove from the cabinet. It is a tight fit, so you will need to spread the sides slightly in order to remove the drum. Next, remove the 3 screws holding the heat diffuser in the rear of the drum in order to remove the rear drum bearing. (Tip: It would be nice to have a helper hold the new drum bearing in place when starting the screws, and it also helped to tighten each a little at a time to keep the new bearing flat as it was drawn up next to the drum.) Tighten the screws holding the new bearing in place. Next, remove the 4 small screws holding the heating element housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Rather than disconnecting the wires, I used a bent coat hanger to hold the housing while I removed the bearing retainer and clip from the rear of the housing.) Remove the 4 screws holding the bearing retainer and clip, and replace with you new part, paying close attention to the clip's position, and tighten. Replace the housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Now is a good time to familiarize yourself with the belt and tensioner pulley for reassembly. Also, it may be a good idea to look at your belt, and replace as needed.) Next, reinstall the drum and insert the new bearing shaft into the new bearing housing. Using both hands again, reach underneath the drum, locate the tensioner pulley, and belt. Push the tensioner pulley over to the right, and move belt over the pulley on the motor, and behind the tensioner pulley. The belt should be tight. If not, inspect to ensure that the belt is over the motor pulley, and the tensioner pulley. Next step is to reinstall the front panel. I also spent the extra money and replaced the front drum bearing, and slides. Please note that the green slides are on top, and the white slides are on the bottom. Lift the panel over the tabs, lean forward while lifting the tub, resting the tub on the front bearing. Reinstall two screws in the upper corners, and tighten the front panel back in place. Now is a good time to turn the drum to ensure that the belt is in place, and that the drum turns correctly. (Tip: If your dryer is equipped with a light, you may also want to replace the bulb in the front panel (if needed) prior to attaching the front panel.) Reinstall the top panel by aligning the tabs in the control panel with the top panel, being careful not to bend the tabs. Next, open the front door and use the 2 long screws to reattach the top panel to the front panel. Plug in power cord.

Had back in service within a hour of receiving parts

Replaced the rear drum bearing, Front drum bearing,front bearing tabs and belt. I replaced the belt from the front of dryer. Better to go thru the back. Much easier.

Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.

Unplugged power. removed 2 screws to take of top cover. once inside removed 2 more screws to slide front panel of. I first replaced slides on front panel. I then lift drum and installed new belt. Only trick is to make sure you wrap belt around tension arm pully properly. Basically a very easy job

When we first heard the screeching i thought right away that it was the belt. we ordered a new one and after i replaced it the dryer was still just as loud. I wished i went here first. Right away i found others with the same problem, did the same repair which was just taking 2 screws out, sliding the top and front panel off(watch for the electric wire connected to the panel) and replace a couple of plastic slides. now it is better than ever.