CWE7000ACB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

I removed the bad element - two screws, and tested it on my meter as recommended. The test meter showed it was bad, so I ordered a replacement element from PartSelect. I did check getting a part from a local dealer, and it would have been $10 more. The help and recommendations I recieved on the PartSelect repair forum make it easy.

Terry Hausler

My wife removed old element and replaced new element by removing and rescrewing 2 screws and detaching and retaching 2 wires to thr respective elements in about 5-10 minutes.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

I opened the oven door and unscrewed the two screws that connected the element to the back of the oven. I then pulled the element forward but it would not expose the electrical connections that powered it. I pulled a little harder and it would not pull through the insulation. I then decided that it must be accessable from the back. I took off the door the lighten the oven. I pulled the oven out of the cabinet till the conduit was taught and I could just barely see that there wasn't a panel to access the connection. I then put the back into the cabinet and pulled a little harder yet on the element and the connecters pull through the insulation. I was then able to test the element with the multimeter and decide the power was getting to the element but no heat. I ordered the part the next day. Recieved it the day after that, smokin' fast service I must add. Installed the element and it works like a new one. My wife loved it and then she loved me.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

I removed one screw easily. The other screw was difficult to remove without stripping it. I sprayed wd 40 and let it sit overnight. The next day, my husband sprayed it again and after trying several different size phillips screwdrivers, he got the second screw out. He easily removed the element and then the two wires from it. He attached the two wires and replaced the screws. We tested it and it worked. The best part is: my husband scrubbed the oven before putting all the parts back!

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Had to remove the glass top and the control panel and the panel bracket then use angled needle nosed pliers to compress the retainers then pull the switch from the inside of the oven

Removing the oven door and several layers of metal to get to the seal, is a fairly easy process. Our door had three different fasteners, torx head screws to remove the door, a very small flat head screwdriver to remove the chrome door trim screws, and a nut driver to remove the inner panels and glass. The replacement seal is over-large and must be trimmed. Care should be taken when fitting the integrated wire. Bending at the corners only, makes assembly much easier. Reassembly is the reverse of diassembly. Care must be taken that the seal wire hasn't popped out of it's seat when the cover is installed. This is the most time-consuming and frustrating part of the repair. Patience is paramount to get a good fit. Because I had made an odd bend in it, about one inch of wire was not properly seated after the cover was seated and tightened down. I was able to gently squeeze it into the seat with a flat tip screwdriver without removing any screws. The final problem area is reinstalling the door. Although two people would be helpful to accomplish this Task, I was able to accomplish it with the aid of a three foot piece of 2x4. By wedging the piece of lumber behind both hinges, they were held open under tension to allow slipping the door on. Once partially installed, the 2x4 can be removed and the door seated. Hope this helps.

Removed the door removed 2 inner panels Installed and reassembled A Cake Walk NOTE be careful not to strip threads

I pulled off the facia from the microwave/oven. Unscrewed the plate holding the microwave and slid out the microwave. The microwave and oven are a unit. I unscrewed the oven from the hole it sits in and slid out the oven and set it on a sturdy chair. Then I unscrewed (6 screws) the bracket that holds the microwave to the oven. After that I unscrewed (14 screws) the top sheetmetal plate on the oven and slid that around behind the oven. Then I unscrewed the grounding strap inside. Did the 2 screws on each side of the oven holding the fan unit and slid that out. Undid the 2 wires plugged into the motor and the 2 screws holding the fan motor. Then I slid off the fan from the old motor and slid it onto the new motor and reversed the whole process.

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.