CWE23SP2MGS1 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!

Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

It just snapped in. Fit perfectly. Excellent service.

Removed drawers, lifted out old frame assembly ( no tools ) removed and cleaned old glass from assembly.
Carefully screwed old rollers ( x4 )into new frame, then placed old glass in new frame, repositioned frame into refrigerator and then repositioned drawers in frame.
20 minutes , no issues

The repair was, as you would guess, was very simple: After removing any items that were still in the shelf, grasp the shelf on both sides and pull it straight up. Once it has cleared the bosses in the door, it can be pulled straight out. Install the new shelf by reversing the motions mentioned before.

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP

Ordered a replacement ice maker. Simple to remove old unit one screw and one screw to remove wire cover to unplug. Replacement unit looked a little different as the left side of the new unit had various ridges which did not allow a proper fit into ice making box. After examining old unit and new I swapped the old left cover with new left cover and unit fit perfectly and it is working correctly. I suggest adding a quick note about the upgraded part as it may not fit properly and the side cover may have to swapped out.

Removed all containers from the freezer,
Removed lower freezer door, 3 bolts on each side.
Removed one front screw on the ice maker, unplugged two connectors on slide off unit
Removed covers on the old ice maker and installed on the new one
Installed the new ice maker in reverse of the removal process

Inspected the old ice maker and found the motor drive gear had missing teeth; I believe that the heater on the ice maker was failing causing a strain on the drive gears

Exposed evap defrosted with heat gun exposed defrost element defrost termination switch ok therminster didn’t check out the thermistor sends the signal to logic panel then run the the freezer ice machine and refer temps it took 24 hours before the system starting to show results freezer compartment 10 below ice compartment 0 degrees refer temp 37 degrees one refrigerant three different temps system is running at optimum performance 450.00 $ service call the thing with GE appliances there is no wiring diagram .thankyou parts select .ill use you on all domestic service calls.

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!

It was way to ez to install only a couple of minutes that's it

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.