CWE19SP4NBW2 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
both freezer and refigerator were warm.
I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.
Parts Used:
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Harry from DURYEA, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 2 people
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The Refridgerator and Freezer were not cooling.
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Frank from VERO BEACH, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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The refrigerator door handle broke
I Googled how to fix a ge door handle. It was super easy. Just slide it up, take it off and replace by putting the new one in place and sliding down till it clicks.
Parts Used:
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Barbara from EASTON, PA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
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Replaced door shelf
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Thomas from SARASOTA, FL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
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brand new ge refrigerator delivered with broken access cover. cost 6.95 so i repaced it myself.
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Gerald from Shelton, CT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
4 of 9 people
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Refrigerator not defrosting, ice tray clogging up in ice tray, refrigerator making loud humming noise, and compressed running all the time.
First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.
Parts Used:
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Mark from ROSEMOUNT, MN
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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Refrigerator not getting cold
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Dan from COLUMBIA, SC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
1 person
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Refrigerator kept shutting off
Pulled the fridge out. Removed the back panel over the mother board. Removed and replaced. Easy peasy and working well.
Parts Used:
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Michelle from LAWTON, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 4 people
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Temperature
I couldn’t repair the problem because the part that came did not have the clips to crimp on the end that go into the modular connection,
Parts Used:
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Richard from WEST HARTFORD, CT
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 of 2 people
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The control board generated clicking noise. Temperature display wrong values.
On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.
Parts Used:
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QUOC-LOC from LYNN HAVEN, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 of 2 people
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Freezer working but fridge not cooling.
Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.
Parts Used:
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Kent from Bartlesville, OK
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
1 of 2 people
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Food section of fridge always warm
Located temperature sensor on condenser in the freezer section( as per instructional video ). Cut off bad sensor with wire cutter then soldered on the new sensor and sealed with electrical shrink wrap.
Parts Used:
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Troy from Dacula, GA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
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freezer no cold enought
as per video- follow all of the videos and u r going to save a lot of money tx partselect im glad I found u guys ps only order from partselect.com they only ship the correct parts remember look at the video select the symptom and buy as per video tx again problemsolved
Parts Used:
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John J. from Deland, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
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The refrigerator was making load and unusual noises.
I identified the noise was coming from the coils / and the fan. Cleaning the fan helped reduce the noise a bit but it still kept recurring. I ordered the part, which was really easy using the diagram on the website. The instructions and the video were really helpful and was able to remove the old motor and replace it with the new one with relative ease. While there I cleaned the fan blade and vacuumed the surrounding area. This whole repair went quite smoothly and has given me the confidence to take on other repairs before calling out the repairman.
Parts Used:
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Ajaykumar from Plainsboro, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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defrost problem (refrigerator/freezer not cooling)
After replacing the Defrost Thermostat, Defrost Heater Assembly, and the Main Board, I concluded that the problem must be the Defrost Thermistor, which I replaced in less than 10 minutes and it fixed the problem! I cut the wires on the old thermistor and connected the new one after stripping the wires and taped the new connections with electrical wire. Fast and easy repair (the last part anyway ;).
Parts Used:
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Gordon from Sugar Grove, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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