CW7500Q Crosley Washer - Instructions

I tipped the washing machine back to allow me access to the bottom of the washing machine to remove the belt from the water pump. After removing the belt, I righted the machine, unscrewed the three screws holding the rear access panel on. I used pliers to remove the clamps from the inlet and outlet hoses then removed the hoses. I removed three screws holding the water pump on to the bottom panel of the washing machine. I removed the pump and replaced it with the new pump. I then reinstalled the screws, the hoses, the clamps, the access panel, and the belt. I plugged the washer back in and - viola! It works again.

I took pictures at different steps in case I forgot how it was assembled. Unplugged the power, turned off the water hoses, unplugged the hoses, pulled the washer out, took of the access panel in the lower left hand corner, took of two tec screws that hold the water valve in place, removed the four wires that were attached to the water valve, removed the water hose attached to the water valve, reattached everything to the new water valve. The only difficulty is the access panel is a bit small

The problem was not in the switch but in the plastic hose from the tub to the switch. The hose was cracked and air/water leaked which therefore didn't activate the switch. I removed the top back cover to access the switch and released the hood of the machine, like a car, using a thin scaper to depress the spring loaded retaining clips. The hose was cracked at the tub just above the retainig clip. I bought new hosing at a local hardware store and replaced the switch to omit both of them as a future problem. Sell the tube with the switch as a package deal? Damage to tube may occur from violent, out of balance, spinning tub on spin cycle.

Unplugged washer then took back off control panel. Removed clamp and tube from pressure switch. Pushed in tabs with a screwdriver and lifted top. Removed clamp and broken tube. Put new tube in place and tighten clamp with nutdriver. Closed top and put other end of tube on pressure switch with clamp. Put back on control panel and plugged in. Clamps are to big for application but do work. So far so good!

I wasted time opening up the metal container for the washing machine, which was easier than expected. The top simply pops off with a little bit of prying with a screwdriver, then the front panel is held in place with two sheet metal screws. The front panel then lifts off and you can see the exterior case for the tub drive mechanism and motor. But, it wasn't obvious what was wrong until I tilted the entire unit backwards and saw the drive belt available directly under the machine and fully accessible without any tools. It was obvious, because there was a 1/8" worth of belt fragment dust under the machine. A new belt was all it needed and after I ordered it from PartSelect, I simply jimmied the old belt off the main pulley and put the new one on. It no longer squeals or slips. Hopefully, I gained another 5 years of life out of the washing machine.

I could not tell where the leak was coming from. It was intermittent. Also the clothes were not getting totally dry in the spin cycle. Finally the drum stopped turning. The bearing in the waterpump was shot and the water was leaking from the waterpump. Luckily or unluckily, the bearing completely went and I then found out that the intermittent leaking was coming from the pump. I replaced the pump and the belt that was damaged when the pump bearing locked up. This has resolved the leaking issue.

found repairs on the internet. And my husband followed the repairs and the washer works wonderful thanks.

I took the front pannel off just 2 scrwe was holdig the pannel,the motor was in ftont,4 bolt was holdig the moto,and it is very easy to change,

First I tipped the washing machine onto its front. I removed the belt on the bottom of the machine. Then I removed the screws that held the cover in place on the back of the machine. Next I removed the two hoses that were connected to the vertical pump using pliers to pinch the clamps. I then removed three screws that held the vertical pump in place. I took the new verticle pump with pulley and mounted it to the washer and putting the washer machine back together using the previous steps in reverse order.

Overall, this repair should have been quite easy. The problem was removal of the old seal nut assembly. It was a bear to remove, and ultimately I had to surgically remove it from the washer in pieces. Unfortunately I broke the outer tub (plastic) in the process of getting the nut off. Once I had the silly plastic nut off, and the tub repaired the balance of the repair was absolutely easy.

My summary: This repair is really easy IF the plastic seal nut assembly comes off easily. If it doesn't budget easily, go ahead and chip it apart to get it off, being careful not to damage the threaded part of the agitator shaft. The new one will completely replace the chipped away nut.

Noise loudest during spin cycle. Wash cycle showed transmission was ok. Pump shaft loose in housing. Fix was just as described. Tip washer up, lift belt from pulley on pump. Remove rear panel access. Remove hoses. Un-bolt pump. New pump does not have metal base plate, it fits directly to base of washer. Bolt new pump to base in same orientation, attach hoses, tip washer up and slide belt back on to pulleys. Move belt by hand to check function. Reconnect washer to utilities and begin fill. Check for leaks at hoses. Replace rear panel cover.

I tilted machine onto the front to acces the rear panel. i removed the three screws to expose pump, took of the drive belt located under appliance, removed the three pump screws and removed old defective pump. I installed new pump, put the drive belt back on, reinstalled back panel and screws, hooked the appliance up and started. Been running great ever since. Entire process too about 10 min.

No need to buy a brake wrench nor the expensive spring remover. Once the drum is out the washer turn it upside down and loose the screws holding the transmission about a little more than half way, to give the new snubber enough room to fit in, them tigh and assamble everything back together

1. Unplug power cord.
2. Move washer away from the wall to get access to the back of the control panel.
3. Remove 5 screws from the back panel cover with 1/4" driver, & remove cover.
4. Pull the Water Level Switch knob out from the front control panel.
5. Use pliers to slide away the retaining clip holding the clear rubber tube to the water level switch, & separate the tube from the switch.
6. Use 1/4" driver to remove 2 screws holding the switch, & remove the switch.
7. Remove the electrical wires
8. Install new switch in reverse order.

When you are testing out the washer afterward & your spouse said still not fixed because she thought the water level is too high when the water is still running? Wait a little while longer, the water should stop. She is just not used to see it filled without a load of laundry in it.

I simply emptied the machine of all the water, tilted the washer on its side,removed the small gray access panel located on the back of the washer, removed both hoses and the drive belt. Then I removed the three screw bolts that hold the water pump in place. Then I replaced the old pump with the new on by just following the process in reverse. I did notice that the new pump did not come with a metal support plate(at least thats what I called it. No problem though when I found out from a local repairman that its a newer design. Total time less than 15 minutes.