CVM1750SH1SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Looked on line and found a you tube that said to check the door micro switches (there are three of them. Found one of the switches had an actuator that was stuck down. I got the actuator working but problem was still present. Another you tube showed how to repair the contacts in the switch and that solved the problem. however the plastic piece that holds the switches was broken and would not hold the switches securely. Ordered that piece and a new switch. Remove the vent plate on top (one phillips) and the control panel (one phillips). The switch holder is held in place with 2 phillips and is a little tricky to get it out and undo the wires. Once out, it's just a matter of putting the switches into the new holder and reinstalling it. Google the model number and the problem and there's virtually a you tube to repair ANYTHING.

It is easy to repair the burnt out bulb if one has the correct bulb. Your website is very user friendly and your service is great. I was not able to replace the bulb at this time because our RV is at the repair shop for some other matters. I am sure the installation of the new bulb will go smoothly. Thanks for asking. Sharry Kiehl

Everything worked on the display light inside worked but when you closed the door and set time it would start counting down but not heating nor would the turntable turn. Started reading troubleshooting chart and first thing I did was removed the cover and checked door switches and found primary door switch wasn't working so I ordered a new one installed it and it worked. Anyone doing this has to be very careful because of the stored energy in the capacitor is strong enough to kill.
My micro is only 2 years old so I was hoping it wasn't anything major.

Just placed it in microwave

I was surprised to find that the turntable for my 10 year old GE Profile microwave/convection oven was not readily available at my local GE retailer. I ordered the part from this website hoping that my order would be filled. I received an immediate response from customer service and the part was on my front doorstep in under 1 week! I would order from this website again!

I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.

Very easy to replace. This replacement part is the perfect fit for my microwave since the original part has been discontinued. It does have the night light and bright light feature.

Open microwave door and remove plastic cover running across top of the oven box by unscrewing 3 Phillips head screws above and behind plastic cover. (4th screw to the right is not related to this cover). DO NOT PULL COVER STRAIGHT OUT. Cover slides either right or left then pops out. Remove old filter and replace and reinstall cover. Filter lays at a 45 degree angle against metal tabs tilting toward you.

open microwave door remove 3 screws on top of microwave, slide top panel to the left and pull out top panel slide old filter out put in new one and reassemble

Slide thin blade between black plastic cover and microwave door frame and pry up gently to release snap in tabs for the top. They are about 8 inches from each side of the door lengthwise. Same for bottom, except pry down. Next pry outward at each end with blade between the black plastic frame and door frame to release snap in tabs. Doing this may take a bit of jiggle work and be gentle, this frame is fragile. Next there are 5 small phillips screws behind this frame to be removed. 2 bottom 2 top and 1 by door handle. When screws are loosened keep phillips driver holding the screw in, then cup your hand under each screw and catch them when removing them to prevent screws hitting the floor and bouncing to lostville. Next use the thin blade to pry door outer shell from door frame partially. Insert blade between metal frame and plastic shell of door approx. 4 inches from end lengthwise and pry up to release snap in tabs. Repeat for bottom except pry down. The door may separate at handle end now; if not insert blade vertically at handle end about 3 inches from top between metal frame and plastic door shell and pry out and again about 3 inches lower. Use fingers to pry handle end of door apart far enough to see the spring holding the latch. Use fingers or small needlenose pliars to undo spring then slide up plastic latch and remove. Place old spring onto hook in the middle of the new latch, position new latch with latch arms with circles pointing downward back onto metal frame with upper and lower latch guides hooking into metal frame. Push latch down and reconnect spring to metal hook in door frame. Slide new latch up and down a little bit to ensure proper operation. Next squeeze metal frame and outer door shell together until you hear the snap ins snap close. Next put a small bit of wax on end of phillips driver to hold the small screws and reinstall them. Next insert the end of the black plastic frame towards the hinges first into the door then rest the black plastic frame lightly against the microwave door. Press against the top back corner about 4 inches from the hinges and squeeze together the door and the frame. It will make snap sound then repeat for bottom corner. Next squeeze together about 4 inches from handle end at top then bottom to hear snap sound. Finally squeeze the vertical part together behind the handle and make sure black plastic frame is flush with metal door frame and you are done. Again these parts are fragile so take your time.

I had already removed the old grease filters. Unwrapped the new grease filters and popped into place. No tools were necessary.

Removed unit from above range. (A two person task.) Removed display panel, disconnecting wires from plugins. Removed outer cover to access magnetron. Used camera to take photos before disconnecting other wires. Replaced magnetron and reconnected wires, double checking with photo. Tested prior to reinstalling. It works fine.

My oven is installed above the counter making it a bit difficult to reach the screws closest to the wall. Instructions should note that both harnesses need to be disconnected and that there are two screws, not one holding the motor. This one issue made it frustrating since that screw is located towards the back away from your vision. This is when the flash light and a bit of contortions were required.

To get the microwave out to fix it, Appliance repair man had to dismantle surrounding Cabinetry. It then took him half an hour to replace part. Reassembly took another 45 minutes.

This is an above the range microwave, use 2 people to remove it. I set it on a table and removed the outer cabinet. I then used jumper leads to discharge the capacitor. I removed the control panel (taking a picture to ensure proper wiring on assembly), then I removed the latch board. Once I had the latch board out I removed the monitor switch (which is the middle switch) and tested it for continuity. This is a normally closed switch. I tested the other two switches as well and found these (normally open) switches for continuity to be good and the monitor switch to have a short. This switch should show continuity when the door is open and should show no resistance when the door is closed. (Take care removing the switches) After I received the parts I installed them in the new Locker Holder and installed the latch board (ensure to follow the latch board adjustment steps located in the control board). I then attached the wiring to the control board and then plugged in the unit. I tested the unit to ensure it functioned correctly. I then installed the outer cabinet, and then installed the unit above the range (Use 2 people for this process). Overall an easy fix you just need to ensure you follow safety procedures (especially when dealing with capacitors.
Take a lot of pictures of the wiring and of the components and take care with the latch board or you'll have to buy a new one when all you really needed is a monitor switch.