CSS2780S-1 General Electric Range - Instructions

[1] squirted LiquidWrench on the 4 screws holding the convection fanblade rear cover in place. Used a socket and rachet to remove screws; the loosener really helped after 10+ years.

[2] the broken heating element was easy to remove. The two spade connectors however didn't have much free length;these wires wanted to retreat back into the rear oven wall.
[3] So i put a small binder clip from my desk supplies on each spade end, this left the connectors where I could grab them.
[4]I used needle-nose pliers to firmly crimp the the spade connectors onto the new heating element; couldn't have made a firm placement with fingertip pressure alone.
[5] I cleaned the oven door hinge area, oven bulb area, and other hard to reach spots with Simple Green and wipes.

I ordered the replacement clips from this site and they arrived in a timely manner. The clips were perfect, but due to the age of the oven, the holes had elongated and the new clips kept falling out also. I modified the clips by widening the tips with a pair of pliers. They are holding just fine. I don't think the older clips could've withstood the modification.

Removed burned out element and discovered replacement element had a different back plate and different hole pattern. Also, the electical connecttion from power wires to ends of element were a TOTALLY different size, both in hole size and size of material that hole was placed. This tood a lot of slow increasing the size of the hole time. Also, the backplate was a different size with a two hole pattern at the top of the plate, as oppossed to the original plate with holes centered at the sides of the plate. Had to drill holes in back oven wall higher than I wanted, as the oven wall had a depression in the back wall and I could not drill at that point. By drilling holes that were higher than previous holes, there was now a 1/2" opening at the bottom of this plate. Used a hack saw and cut off a piece of the old plate to slip underneath, then screwed in the new plate, thus filling the remaining opening, and securing the additional hand made additional plate. This was a lot more than I had bargain for, and when I turned on the oven, it did not work! I re-checked the connection of the power wires to the grid element and found one of the connections to be disconnected. Reconnected this wire and everything is just ducky now.

I read the previous repair stories and figured it couldn't be that tough. Mine actually had a slight deviation and I'm sure based on model...
To remove the oven door handle, I had to remove 3 screws (phillips) on the top of the hinged door. This allowed the face plate to easily pull away from the inside of the door. The existing handles were held in place by a single hex head screw each.
Voila, in 2 minutes the entire handle was off.
This is where things had a slight deviation.
The door end caps I bought had 2 alignment prongs that extended beyond the actual surface. My door did not have holes for them to go into. No big deal, I took some wire snippers and clipped the little plastic prongs off so it was flush like my old ones. That took about 3 minutes because I had to go back into the garage to get the tool :-)
My metal door handle bar did not want to go all the way in very easily into the end caps. I went back into the garage and got some WD40 and sprayed into all pieces and wiggled things back and forth for a few minutes, placing it against the oven a couple of times to ensure I had the bar was seated enough where the holes lined up with the oven.
I would recommend putting the end caps on the bar PRIOR to attaching one side to the oven. I originally did not do this and when it was difficult to get the bar on, I had to take it off so I could perform the procedure I just mentioned.
Honestly, the entire "job" took 10 minutes.

took old unit and measured it part select made it easy for me ordered new unit and installed easily and quick thanks to quick service and shipping

Although the parts did fit, some modification was needed to remove the excess tabs as it appears these parts were for multiple applications. However the end result was a good fit and reapirs were successful.

All I had to do was pop the clamp on the top part of the heating element and push the clamp into the hole.

Removed mounting screws and element only pulled out about 2 inches. Disconnected wires and had to drill slightly bigger hole in element ends to reattach wires. Element mounting bracket was different than old element. Had to use one existing screw hole in oven back and drill a new one.

Had to take back off of the door to get to screw that held the broken piece of handle before installing the new part. Then had to put the back on the door and slip the door into place.

It was very simple. Remove 5 screws and attach the new one with the same 5 screws. Took about 10 minutes.

Truned off the power took out the two screws holding the old element disconnect the power leads and put in the new element. Was great to recieve the new element in one day, the day before Xmas.

I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

1. Turn breaker off at breaker box. 2.Disconnect old broil element. Pull electric wires out 3-4 inches from BACK of oven. Clamp wires or tie off so they do not retreat behind back oven wall. INSTALL wires to new element and secure back plate. Install NEW clamps to new element. Switch on breaker and check operation.

ordered parts WB21X5301 oven sensor and 2 WB1X681 screws mine were bad highly recommended slid my stove out also a good time to clean all the years of junk behind it removed screws mine were bad unplug the connector slide the sensor cable through the hole and u are good after cleaning be hind stove slide back into spot reinstall power and code went away tested different temps with temp gauge and keypad and we were good