CS980ST8SS General Electric Range - Instructions

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

Decided to replace both hinges. Using other instructions, lift the door with hinges off and away from the oven frame and place front side down on a table. Take a picture of the bottom edge to help you remember where all the brackets and bits go. Remove the screws near each hinge and all along the bottom. On one side lift up the inner door panel and pull out the old hinge from the bottom, replacing it with the new hinge. Repeat on the other side. Return all screws to their original holes, bottom edge first and then for each hinge. Replace door back to oven frame using reverse procedure.

First, The hinges did not seem like the issue for my problem. The oven door did not sag loosely in the closed position, rather, it would come to a stop before being fully closed, so that the oven light would stay on and the oven computer would complain that the door was open. I would have to force the door closed and wedge it to keep it closed. I finally ordered the hinges and compared them to the existing hinges and could not see any difference.

I opened the oven door part way, released the hinge catches, and then lifted the oven door off of the oven. Then I layed it down front side down, took pictures of the assembly, then removed the bottom plates and hinge attachement screws. I replaced the hinges, reinstalled the plate and then the door assembly, and it started opening and closing correctly.

Lots of jiggling until I found the screws to remove. After finally getting the top off the base there was the Instructions on a pamphlet taped to the bottom. The key tho get the top off is to remove the face and remove the proper screws( they are identifiable)unplug the electric plug 2 screws on the back sides and poof it is free!

Turn off the power at the breaker. Use hex head bit from 4 in one screwdriver or 1/4 inch nut driver. Heating element comes out, take off wire clamps and install new piece. Put screws back in, turn breaker on and that's it!

Used nut driver and removed the 4 nuts holding the broiler. Pulled electrical wires of old broiler Received new unit and it was just as easy to replace. Thank you for assistance.

Removed the hexagon screws. pulled the unit out and wiggled the tabs loose disconnecting them. Installed the new unit-attaching the tabs making sure they were tight. Put the new unit through the opening in the back of the oven and reattached the hexagon screws. Back in business in about 10 minutes.

Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.

Really easy. Part came in rapid time and was the right part. Went on web and got instructions with video how to install.

Pull out wires & replace element by putting wires back in then tighten...done!!!!

Did the repair just like the video shows.

I removed the rear lower cover. Disconnected the terminals from the heating element. Removed 2 screws from the heating element from inside the oven. Removed the heating element. Reinstalled everything in reverse order.

I used pliers to remove the hex bolts from the old burner element and pulled out the terminals by hand. I ordered my part and was slightly concerned because the part number was different (this due to my oven being so old I guess). After reading another repair story on this site, when I got my new part, I turned off the electricity to the range at the fuse box vs. unplugging the oven from the wall - because if I had pulled out the oven to access the plug, I would have had to re-caulk along the edges where it connects with my counter tops. I then slid the terminals into the female parts; this was a bit tricky because the female parts had receded behind the insulation in the hole in the back of the oven where they are located. I used small needle-nosed pliers to grab them and pull them forward enough to slide the new terminals in (by hand). I then put in the old hex bolts and used the pliers to tighten them. Flipped the fuse box switch and tried it out - worked great!

Slide the rang out to access the 240V plug & unplugging it. Removed the sheetmetal cover from the rear of the range to access the slip on wire plugs to prevent damaging the insulation. The insulation would be damaged if pulling them through the opening in the oven wall with the plugs attached to the element. Removed the racks from the oven. Unscrewed the retaining screws holding the element to the rear wall of the oven, lifted damaged element out and reversed the process for instillation. Perfect opportunity to clean underneath and behind the range.