CLZ8505BDB Magic Chef Cooktop - Instructions

find the part (image is really helpful), buy, and replace. Like I said, it's really easy.

I replace the igniter first that didn’t work so I had to order the wiring and then I replaced that there was a cover that I took off with a screwdriver took the wiring off and put the new wiring in it it was that easy.

Used strap wrench to turn out. Rust build up under the burner. Used flat screwdriver to loosen under burner and strap wrench to turn out. Then replaceing the igniter was very easy.

Twisted and lifted off the burner, loosened in a previous repair; removed electrical wires from igniter; undid two screws holding igniter in place; rotated igniter 90 degrees and lifted it out; reversed process with new igniter.3

I ordered the two replacement burners. When they arrived I equipped myself with WD-40 spray, rubber mallet and a rubber gripper I used to use to open canning jars. Sprayed the WD-40 around the burner base and let it sit for 20 minutes. Made a mental note of the location of the sparker of the burner, to remember to put the new one in the same way. Gathered my courage and gently wacked the burner with the mallet all around it. Then grabbed the burner with the gripper and gave it a firm ¼ circle twist counter clockwise. It came apart with no problem. Disconnected the two electric wires by slipping them off their sockets. Removed all the loose rust and cleaned around the burner. Reconnected the wires with the new replacement burner and dropped it in its place. Wiggled it a little until it fit back into its original location and twisted it ¼ circle clockwise. Done, just saved myself the price of a new stove! Note: There is no need to shut off the main gas valve.

Pulled cooking grate off, twisted burner head counter clockwise 1/8 of a turn, pulled up and out. Removed 2 connecting wires.put new burner head on in reverse order. Simple about 2 minutes including opening box.

Removed burner pan screws,igniters, gas tubes & burners. Changed 2 igniters, removed rust & repainted ends of 2 of the tubes (heatproof paint). New burners were made a hair smaller than original but locked in O.K...Now, the hard part...disconnected all four tubes from gas valve assembly. (Had to shut off gas to house in order to remove main gas line to stovetop.) Had to remove valve box in order to remove/replace frozen valve. Unit is 25 years old, works as and looks new...Rust was caused by boil-overs.

We replaced 3 of 4 igniters on the stove top according to the previously submitted recommendations. Easy to do butt after putting one of the modules back together, we found one igniter still didn't function. We discovered the solution was to run the connecting wire under the gas tubing. Apparently it was compressed when it was over the top of the tube and not under it.

Watched a video on replacing igniter. Removed old igniter and replaced it with new igniter.

First I turned the burner head counter clockwise, lifted it out and pulled the connectors off. Then I connected the connectors back on the prongs of the new burner head and placed it back on the gas line and turned the burner head clockwise. I then turned the pilot light and and tested the connection. It worked without any problems. I then proceed to replace the second burner head using the same steps as on the first burner head.

The new grommets were NOT the correct parts, too big, so there was no repair.

The old knob simply slides off the shaft. I aligned the fins on the back of the new knob with the grooves on the shaft of the ignitor and pressed the new knob on.

Removed old igniter. Porcelain was broken. Replaced with new igniters. Really simple to do. Took 10 minutes to replace all 4

pull wire off of spark electrode unscrew old burner. screw on new burner attach wire to new spark electrode.

Unscrew the bottom cover, remove the old ignitor. Reverse the process to install. Hardest part was getting the bottom cover screws out because of rust. Otherwise, very simple.