CGS980SEM6SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Took longer to open the box.

I had really hoped these new knob dual skirts would be made of metal and therefore superior to the ones that came with the oven, but alas, these are also made of plastic. It was easy to screw them into place although they didn’t come with screws I just used the old screws. I sure hope they last longer than the originals!

I followed the video instructions on the site. I unplugged the power supply and turned off the gas supply. I then removed the plate out of the bottom of the oven to get to the igniter. Then I removed the screws and unplugged the igniter to remove the old part. I had to purchase two porcelain wire nuts because the new part connection did not match up with the old connection. The repairs were quite simple and I had my oven back and working in no time. I am glad I read the comments from others because I thought it was my gas control valve, but they were right it was my igniter. This saved me time and money.

Unplug the range from its wall socket to avoid electric shock. The various range parts that support a pot or frypan are easily lifted off their perches, exposing the small white igniter. The only moderately difficult aspect is wiggling the igniter out of its retainer. The electric wire leading into it then can be pulled out and fed into the new igniter with a push. Replace igniter in its retainer, then replace the range parts you removed to expose the igniter and plug the range back into the wall socket. Piece of cake.

With the model number I wnet on Parts select site and located the part through the problem finder selection,(GREATFEATURE!) (74% the problem is the Flat Style Oven Igniter) (watched the video on installation and compared my unit with the one in the video). The video explained installation completely and made it very simple. The only critic is that the oven door can be removed completely to make it easier to get in the the oven, opening part way and lifting up the oven door will come completely off. Also the broiler pan drawer can be taken completely out if you would need to get in this way for some reason. Final note: I called the local GE dealer Parts dept- they would have had to order the part anyway and it would have cost three times what Parts Select charged me.Save $$$ great! .

Instructions on YouTube not available, so for me, this was trial and error. Unplug the range. Remove the stove top grates, burners, and using an 5-prong allen-like wrench (star shape), remove the fasteners attaching the burners to the stove top. Remove the screws behind the rear vent and completely remove the stainless steel vent fascia. Using a deep socket wrench, remove the nut associated with each burner unit. This is done from on top of the range after the grates, etc are removed. Tweezers may help here. There are 2 extra star-shaped fasteners attaching the R front burner to the burner unit, remove those. Carefully lift the top of the stove up, over the rear vents, and move it towards the back of the unit. An aluminum foil covered heat shield protects the power control unit for the oven at the front of the stove top. There are 2 bolts attaching it to the main unit, remove those. A white foam material is under the wiring leading to the power control unit. Carefully remove that. 4 screws hold the PCU in place, remove those. Carefully shimmy the PCU out from under the front part of the stove. Before installing the new PCU, I went through all the wire attachments making sure they came off easily; pulling them off and then replacing them. Using rubber gloves, I held the new PCU and systematically went through removing a wire connector from the old PCU, replacing it on the new PCU. This takes a bit of patience. Once attached, carefully replace the PCU and attach with the 4 screws. Then reverse these instructions to complete the job. I plugged the range in once the new PCU was attached with the 4 screws to determine if it worked. It did. It takes some doing to get the burners properly aligned so they can be tightened back down with the deep socket. I only hand tightened those nuts. Good luck!

I JUST EXCHANGED THE BURNER AND BURNER CAP.

Order parts and installed - no tools needed - completed repairs less than 1 minute

First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire attachments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.

First I checked that the wire and sparker was working by switching the wires on top of the range. I did this by pulling out the sparker switching it from the back working burner on the same side. The same burner would not light so I knew it was not the sparker.

Then watch a bunch of videos and found this gal to be the most helpful on how to take apart my exact stove.
Go here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRGfuhUzEaY

I did not take everything apart like she did. I ordered the spark module and just replaced it following her method to take off the back, switch the wires to the new module, then put everything back together again.

All burners have been working perfectly since the fix.

1. Removed oven door..
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.

Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!

Just lifted old burner off with my fingers and replaced with the new one. What needs to be focused on here is the fact that Part Select has such a complete line of parts rather than the difficulty in the install.

One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !

Pulled the gas stove out so that I could shut off the gas valve and unplug the power cord. Job was made easier by removing the oven door (which just slides out). I took the 2 screws out that held the old igniter in place. Went to the rear of the range where there was a small 3"X2" electrical cover for the igniter, and disconnected the wire leads from the wiring harness. I then pulled the old igniter out through the oven front. Fed the new igniter wires through the back of the range and plugged the new igniter in. Reinstalled the electrical cover in the back of the range, attached the 2 -1/4" screws to reinstall the igniter inside the broiler. Put back the oven door. Turned the gas valve back on and sprayed on a soapy solution to check for gas leaks. Plugged the electrical cord back in. Pushed range back in place, Turned broiler on. Wait for a few seconds till the gas comes back thru the line. Works great Our stove was a GE Profile Gas Range. The part number for the igniter is WB13K21. We are very satisfied. Jim