CFGF337GSE Frigidaire Range - Instructions

first unplug oven. then remove upper back panel(6 screws)with a 1/4 nut driver. next unplug electical connector from control unit. then remove unit by removing (4 screws on corners of unit with 1/4 nut driver. replace unit with new one and reassemble in reverse order.

replaced temp probe per your suggestion. No improvement! checked both heating elements with ohm meter. OK Next suggestion was replace circuit boards. Bought new range for less than cost of 2 oven/range control boards.

Pulled stove away from the wall and unplugged it. Removed probe and cut the wires because the connection clip on the new probe was different from the original. Leave the wires as long as possible because you will need the extra length to splice the clip from the old probe to the wires on the new one. Replaced probe and plugged the oven back in. Done.

We turned off the gas, moved the stove out from the wall and unplugged it. Then we removed the metal back (using an adjustable wrench because we didn't have a square headed screwdriver.) We then removed the four screws that had held the clock/timer in place before the plastic shattered. We inserted the new part and reinserted the screws. Then we replaced the back cover. When we plugged the range back in and set the clock everything worked beautifully.

I pulled the top cover from inside the oven off and unscrewed 2 screws to remove the heat plate. After i unplugged the adapter for the old ignitor apart and unplugged 2 wires and removed 2 screws that hole the ignitor to the plate. i replaced with the new ignitor, screwed back in place , plugged the 2 wires and the adaptor plug in and i was done , in less that 30 mins.. I also saved $180 (Sears $260) on this do it yourself repair.. Thanks PartSelect for having the part in stock.... R Diaz (Bklyn N.Y.)

Moved the stove. Used the template to position the bracket. Put the supplied screws to attach bracket to the floor. Slid stove back into place. DONE!

It was easy once I got screws that work.Old screws and handle had machine screws that held handle on.Order screws with handle so you can install immediately...

Removed the old oven racks and put in the new ones.

Really easy to replace handle. However, because the new handle does not have the metal inserts to receive the attaching screws (!appearently a bit cheaper to make!), I am concerned that it will not last as long. I could find no reference to new attaching screws so used the old ones...hope it works!

Removed outer glass first ,then worked my way thru to inner glass..

I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti

The foul order was the cause of a "Mummified Rat" that I found on the bottom Left /outside wall of the oven. I first Unplugged the stove and turned off the gas. I removed the grates and the burners. Each burner is held down with two (2) 3/16" screws which makes it a total of eight (8) screws in all. After removing all eight screws, you can now pop up the burner lid with a putty knife or a large Screw Driver. I used a large screw driver, After removing the "Lid" you will then see the "Insulation Blanket" draped over the oven, to remove this blanket there are two (2) copper wires securing the blanket in place, you'll have to cut these in order to install your New Blanket. Removing the "Blanket " is a "No Brainer" just be cautious and don't snag any of the "Igniter Wires" The "Insulation Blanket" goes on one way, this can be identified by the pre-cuts on the blanket. I started out on the left side of the stove, and had the right side of the "Blanket rolled up. As I tucked the "Blanket" under the "igniter Wires" and slowly and gently feeding it with my left hand till it lines up with the pre-cut and drapes itself into place as you maneuver it down with your hands Now start with the right side by unrolling the "Blanket" and following the same procedure making sure the "Insulation Blanket" is fully extended on both sides of the oven.

changed the orfices with a 10mm socket and driver handle used an adjustable wrench to tighten the orfice in the bottom of the oven approximately 45 minutes we were using the range

Really straightforward - just took door off of the hinges and worked taking it apart until I got to the front glass that was cracked. Took it out and put the new piece in and reversed the process. Really easy and I got to clean each piece on the way back in to get rid of some spills.

Unplug the stove from the wall socket. Remove the oven door as shown in the instructions for replacing the door. This makes the job a lot easier. At the rear of the bottom panel there is a screw at each corner. Remove these screws, a screwdriver will loosen them, then remove by hand. If you have a convection oven remove the fan cover as this prevents the bottom panel from coming out. There is a screw at the top and the bottom of the cover. You can then gently lift the bottom panel at the rear and work it out of the front lip. Install the new bottom panel in reverse order.