CFGF337ESC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

After looking over the installation instructions I was confident that I could perform this on my own, However, changing the burner orifices was a bit tricky. Getting the original ones out worked well, they stayed in the nut driver when it was lifted. One of the new ones fell out when inserting it. Thankfully it fell all the way down and I could retrieve it. A small piece of tape was needed to keep it in the driver. The rest of the install went per instructions.

Remove bottom plates and deflector from oven, remove old igniter. Remove bottom drawer and panel to expose wiring. Cut wires, used supplied wire nuts to splice. The time consuming part of this job was having to clean all the parts before reassembly, and having to extract screws that were rusted into place due to heat and spillage. One of the igniter screws was stripped, and was very difficult to remove. The first part in your "probably cause" list was the right one! Thanks for the good service, and a useful website!

Very simple. Removed oven rack that had melted residue on it and replaced it with the new one from your company. I want to tell you that the delivery service I received was just geat. Took less than 48 hours to arrive at my home from the time I placed the order on line. Keep up the good work and I will be happy to share my experience with those in need of you services. Thanks. Marilyn Kasson

Partselect always have their install video with the parts they sell so it was easy. I know contractors must not be happy with people like partselect and YouTube with all the instructional videos they supply us with. Keep up the great work partselect.

Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .

Working on an old oven is difficult. Please expect the unexpected. The years of heating and cooling play havoc with oven parts. The screws holding the Flat Style Oven Ignitor become stripped. It took extra time to remove them. I had to go to the hardware store to buy replacement screws. Once I removed the old parts and had replacement screws the job was very easy.

1. Unplug the range to ensure there is no electricity running through the range. The repair can be done with the propane/gas line still connected.

2. If possible, remove the storage drawer for ease of access.

3. Remove the screw from the metal plate in the left corner of the oven. Detach the end of the igniter cord that you find plugged in there.

4. Remove the two screws that hold the igniter in place. The old igniter should fall to the bottom of the range.

5. Take a picture of the two other cord connections that run into the middle of the back wall. This will come in handy for reference when you install the new igniter.

6. Route the longer extension of the new igniter cord through the hole in the metal corner plate, attach the cord, and put the screw back in to secure the corner plate.

7. Affix the new igniter to the same spot the old one had been in, using the two screws from step 4.

8. Plug in the two shorter cord extensions, using the photo from step 5 if necessary.

9. Reattach the drawer if necessary and plug the range back in.

10. Set the clock, then set the oven to a desired temperature to begin heating. If the repair was successful, the igniter will light the gas piped into the range, and you will see a ring of flame.

New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.

On the front left burner would not ignite, after the installation of the new one, same problem, new one didn't fix.. I guess it's something with the electric igniter

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

Repair went well. I went on You Tube and was able to watch what to do. That was better than reading instructions.

Having already removed the old igniter , replaced it with new.

Replaced the ingintion module, still did not work, replaced the burner complete with new ingiter , it now works but another one quit . the front right one has 5 ohms resistance ,replaced with new one with 0 ohms, the back left has 2 ohms resistance and now it does not work , will need to replace that burner allso. too bad you can't buy just the spark module for the burner.

first I removed oven draw for access, then removed the two screws with a nut driver, next removed the two wire nuts and the old element was free. Replaced new element in reverse steps of removing old and the new part ignited the stove within 30 seconds, but now I have no excuse for not fixing dinner!! Thanks for promt shipping, it arrived early than anticipated.

Your website is great...easy and it literally took me no mote than 5 minutes to find what I needed and order...and received it VERY quickly. Must say I was dreading going to some parts house that we have in our town in bad area, and searching on dusty shelves for what I needed...am so glad I found you!!