CFEF372EB4 Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Simply took oven out of wall, removed back plate, unplugged old sensor, went in the front and unscrewed old sensor, put in new sensor, went in back and plugged in new sensor, put on back plate, push oven in wall. Turn on power

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Pulled out stove, took side panel off on switch side of oven, unplugged old switch, pulled the old switch out the front of the oven, put in new switch and plugged it in. Then put oven back together and pushed it back into space. (Make sure to turn oven off at breaker box before you make repair) you could easily get shocked if you don’t.

removed the old burner and put the new one in it's place.

The replacement of this part is simple enough, out with the old, in with the new. At issue here is the way the controller fails. The heating element goes to the highest temperature. The original controller on this Kenmore oven failed after about two years and the first replacement that I got from you lasted about a year and a half. The defective controllers seem to be working properly once the controller has been turned off and then restarted, but the frequency of failure increases with time until you hardly dare to step away from the oven. This controller should open on failyor, not close.

George Ritz

Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.

1 Turned off the oven breaker.

2. Removed the oven racks.

3. With a Phillips screwdriver, removed the mounting screws holding the temperature sensor and unplugged it.

4. New sensor plug did not match 20 year old connector. Had to cut and solder splice the connectors.

5. Installed the new sensor and now oven holds temperature steady.

Easy order, quick delivery and easy installation, happy wife.

Broil worked on the stove, however in bake mode, the oven did not make temperature. Turned off the stove, unscrewed and inspected coil. I noted there was a section of the coil that had a "corroded" appearance. (it was evidence of the coil being burned out). Checked with a ($9.00) voltmeter, showed infinite resistance. Found the original envelop for the stove taped to the back of the oven from 1973. It has wiring diagram with schematic and noted the coil was 3000 W, 19 ohms.

Bottom Line found comparable replacement online and tested resistance, measure dimensions of the old coil, matched with Watt rating, replaced, tested installed and works great, Oven has been in use for a couple weeks now. New stove would have been around $500.00. Not to mention some remodel work, as the house is old and stove is a built in.

Coil was $60.00 and should buy the time I need until I remodel the entire kitchen.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

Pulled stove out and unplugged it.
Used a Phillips screwdriver to take the back cover off of the control panel.
Each of the 7 lights connects to the red Indicator Light Lens via a slide clamp which is attached to the front of the light assembly. All you have to do is slide the lens into the hole from the outside of the control panel. Then with your other hand, pust the light assembly into the back of the lens and slide it to lock it in place. Repeat with the others.
Replace back cover.
Plug stove back in and slide back into place.
There are you tube videos out there to help you.

searched on the computer for the name and part number that was damaged, found that it was the bake element so i ordered it with part select.com. when it arriver three days later (as expected) i disconnected the gas and electric to the range and simply removed the old element with a phillips screw driver. installed the new element, hooked the gas and electric back up and began cooking again...

thanks partselect..

Generally straight forward repair with the most difficulty coming from the screws holding the element in place being rusted. Took some wd40 and some snub-nosed pliers to get them out. The wire connections on the back of the element are pretty self explanatory. Lightbulb was an easy change though the bulb connection had also rusted a bit and required some pliers to remove.

Took out the bad element and replaced it with the new element in less than 5 minutes, worked perfect, thanks

With no install instructions (NOT good for diy-ers), looked through reviews and watched video for help. Replacement part - not same as original. Had to use magnifying glass to id the terminals / take a picture before disassembly. reassembled - found out terminals are different & black wire is too short. Took off element - rotated the clips one number counter clockwise, reassembled - removed black wire from harness for extra reach. Hooked up, lowered top for test. power on - everything OK. Power off - complete assembly. Power on - test. Seems to be good. When I called customer service for assistance because there was no instruction, they told me I should contact a local appliance repair person. (big joke).

Googled the problem and found Oven Temperature Sensor and Main Terminal Block to be the most likely problems. Turned out to be neither. No parts were needed. Oven has a thermal overload switch on the rear upper left. Thermal overload needed re-set. To do so you have to remove the oven, remove the back and press the red button on thermal overload. Biggest challenge was figuring out how to remove the oven. Even with the installation manual it was not easy to fgure out. The instructions are misleading. You need a special tool. I used two hacksaw blades as a substitute, and slid them in to release the clips. Once you figure out how to get the oven out the rest is simple.