CFEF358EC4 Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Removed oven door. Removed screws from bottom of door as well as handle screws. Remove inner panel to expose glass. Replaced glass panel and reverse steps. Very easy.

Found a YouTube video similar to the required repair. Took door off, disassembled the door, replaced the right hinge-spring assy, reassembled. Worked great. High quality replacement part from Part Select that was made in the USA.

I followed directions for replacement of the glass from the web. Replacement was simple and easy.

Replaced both springs. Follow instructions in owners manual on removing door. Spring assembly resides in door. Remove screws holding spring assembly in place, then the remaining screws holding the inside of door in place. Raising the side, slide out old spring then slide in the new one - do the same on the opposite side. Replace all the screws - starting with those that hold the spring assembly making sure the latches are straight. Put the door back on making sure to lock "spring locks" detailed in owners manual

Really straightforward - just took door off of the hinges and worked taking it apart until I got to the front glass that was cracked. Took it out and put the new piece in and reversed the process. Really easy and I got to clean each piece on the way back in to get rid of some spills.

Husband/wife effort. We located our manual for removing the door and followed instructions. (It's probably online as well.) With the door off, we removed the screws on the side with the defective hinge, took out the old hinge and put in the new one. In trying to replace the door, we couldn't get the lock (upside-down u-shaped piece on the hinge) to rotate over the hinge lever hook on the new hinge. It looked slightly different than the other side (had a bit more hook on it that was in the way). PartSelect sent a new hinge in case the other was defective. (The first arrived in 2 days; the second in 3. No extra charge. Very pleased with the service!) Same trouble. So we filed off the tip of the hook and were able to move the lock in place and put the door back on. The door is not heavy anymore, but doesn't pull in tightly at the top. We thought about taking it off again and trying to position the new hinge a little better to see if it will fit perfectly (it slants down a little compared to the other side.) But it's not so loose at the top that the oven light comes on, so it's usable the way it is. And it looks good, so we're leaving it.

Removed outer glass first ,then worked my way thru to inner glass..

I was unable to loosen the screws myself so I called my friends husband to help me. We watched the video together and followed the instructions. The door in the video was a bit different than mine but this repair was easy.

I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti

I went to you-tube and found a video that told me how to remove and expose the hinge. That was all I needed. One stubborn screw was all the problem I had and it was replaced. Thank you for saving me lots of money!! It's working great and I would buy from Part Select again!

watched a U-Tube video on this subject.....worked like aa charm!!

We removed the screws holding the old element. Pulled the old element out of the back of the oven and disconnected the connecters (they just pull off). Slipped the connecters to the new element and pushed the element back in the oven wall and installed the screws. The only hard thing was removing the screws, because they had been in the oven for 15 years and were a little corroded.

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.

I did the repair in less then 5 minutes. I took out old element and put in new one and turned it on and I had heat. Works great Thanks the part came in 2 days what a wonderful suprise that was.