CFEF317GSC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Removed the back cover of the range. Removed the knob from the front of the switch. Removed 2 screws holding switch to range. Removed wires one at a time and connected to proper poles on replacement switch and reinstalled new switch on range

Snapped the new part into the slot the old one had been in.The repair including opening and closing the drawer took less than a minute.

I had to replace the switch in the back of the control knobs. I was very grateful to the female phone attendant who answered my call. Since my part number had switched a few times, she took the time to reverify the "blueprints" of my machine with the parts carried at Parts Select and she helped me be assured that I was buying the correct part for my machine. She was SOOOO helpful. Will definately buy again from your store.

Pulled stove away from wall until I could access behind it. Disconnected power source, used nut driver to remove 7 small hex screws with nut driver, from back cover, slide down and away. Disconnect two wire( 1 from each end of element). Open oven door, remove all shelves, remove two screws inside oven on back wall, pull out old element. Guide in new element(gently guide each end through access holes in back of oven, line unscrew holes with retaining clips, insert screws. Place racks back in oven. Reattach back panelnwith 7 screws, plug power source back in. Slide oven back into place. Done.

I disconnected power cord. Removed cooking racks. Removed element mounting screws. Removed back panel and removed wires on both ends. Pulled element out put new one in and bolted down. Reconnected wires. Put rear cover on. Plugged in and checked for correct opreation. OK!

Turn off the breaker to the stove. Very important because when you move the control panel around after removing it, you can inadvertently touch a hot wire to a grounded metal part on the stove. Remove the 3 nuts from the back of the control panel and the two nuts from under neath the control panel on either far side. Pull the control knob off by pulling straight away from the control panel. Remove the switch by unscrewing the two screws. Match the 5 wires from the old switch to the new switch by removing one at a time and paying attention to the labeling of each on both switches. Reassemble in reverse order. Turn breaker back on.

When we bought our home less than a year ago, we had three functional burners on our 40" wide 50's classic Kelvinator (not close to standard size these-a-days). After a few months of use, two more burners went out for good and we were stuck using the back left burner for all of our cooking. I opted for the premium burners and made sure to compare my terminals with the ones online to be sure they mounted the same. I removed the burners and terminals, clipped the wires going into the terminals, and removed the top of the stove. I followed the directions that came with the new terminals, pushed in the new burners and viola! All four burners now work. I gave the stove a general cleaning and now my 1954 Kelvinator looks and cooks like it is brand new. It was easily the best $109 I've spent on my home.

I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.

took upper back of stove off then removed 4 screws and replaced timer---that simple

was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing
to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair
dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff

Turn off the circuit breaker to range. Removed the back panel using a nut driver. Removed color coded wiring from old clocktimer and placed wiring on new clocktimer. Removed old clocktimer from range using a phillips screwdriver. Removed the white clock face using a utility knife, placed the white clock face on the new clocktimer. Installed new clocktimer in range using a phillips screwdriver. Replaced the back panel using a nut driver. Turn on the circuit breaker. Set the range clock to the correct time. Baked some cookies to test oven. Easy as pie :)

order pcs fit perfect.

My husband removed the screws that held the top of the stove on and then lifted the top up. It is hinged. He then took out the old insulation, wiped down all visible parts of the interior with a bleach solution and replaced the blanket insulation with the new insulation. That took care of the problem!

TURN BREAKER TO RANGE OFF! Move range out to access rear of the unit. Remove 6 screws to gain access to rear of controls panel. Pull knob off switch. Remove 2 pan head Phillips screws to take switch out. Lugs not in matching pattern but are clearly labled, swap wires one at a time. Reverse the disassembly steps and push the range back in place. DONE