CE1750XWN0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I took off the back panel off the dryer. The idler pulley could be accessed on the bottom. It was a bit cramped but not too tough to replace.

Removed the drum then removed the old parts and installed the new ones. Dryer now runs very quite and heats good. You have very fast service my mother ordered the parts on the net one day and I received the parts next day and did the repair that night and dried clothes. Thanks,

Your great service is very hard to find.

Seemed daunting but pull the front off and the drum is basically just perched inside on some rollers. You have to pull it out to really reach in and wrap the 96”+ band around it and to motor and don’t forget to tension it with tension pulley if you don’t see that if your belt broke!
Another bonus is after 10 years I got to remove the softball size fur ball rolling in the squirrel cage fan , big help on air flow!!!

Took back panel off, and it was really easy putting the new idler pulley in.

I reviewed several videos on parts sites and YouTube. There is more than enough advice online showing step-by-step instructions. The only difficulty came with the rear nut holding the motor shaft to the blower fan. I used a crescent wrench with a long pipe over it for added torque. The two spring clips holding the motor in place can be removed and installed with the help of a nutdriver pushing the clip down, . The dryer was new enough so the motor needed no switch changes. The new motor is running fine.

Attributed excessive noise to age of dryer, upon closer inspection, a dish towel had become caught at rear of drum because the drum support rollers were damaged causing the drum to create a space in the rear of the drum. This was large enough for the dish towel to be caught. Originally I thought that the thermal fuse had blown the circuit-which should occur in an overheating situation-however the loose drum had worn through the electrical wire leading to the door switch because it was not properly seated on the rear drum rollers. the wire was repaired with a wire nut, rear drum rollers were installed and it is working again. thank you for the extremely fast shipping

Took of the btm pan and the top to be able to remove the front. Raised the drum enough to replace the right hand wheel. ( the old ones had already been removed) Replace the left hand wheel and bracket. Re assemble the machine. Worst part was trying to do all this with the can of beer in one hand!!

just put the new part in the door---sooo easy! THANK YOU!

Watched the videos for the repairs on the site. Took the back of the dryer off after unplugging the appliance. Removed the failed fuse and thermostat and replaced them both per the video steps. It took about 25 minutes for both parts and the dryer now works well.

Once it was identified that the Motor Relay was no longer functioning it became a very easy repair. I had the part in 2 days per the initial order information. Installation was merely insuring that each wire clip was connected in the EXACT location on the new Relay as on the old one; removing one at a time from the old to the new is key. This took all of 5 minutes at the most including replacing the front panel back on to the washer.

I looked up the problem on Utube and saw a demo on what three items to check with a volt meter for continuity or resistence on either the start button, the door switch, or the thermal fuse. The first two checked out OK but the fuse was dead, no resistance or ohmns on the voltmeter. I had trouble locating it on my dryer as the Utube site said to pull the rear cabinet off when actually it was under the front panel below the dryer door sitting in an awkward position right on top of the dryer motor. I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to pry open the latches over the panel door that are located about 4 inches in from either end and then used a small right angle screwdriver with a flash light propped against the heating elements (after I removed the cover plate) to see with and to give me more room to loosen just two tiny screws that attached the fuse to the motor. Voila! It works better than before.

Turn off electric to unit.
Remove lint trap.
Remove lower cover below dryer door. 1 grey clip on either side. Bend upper portion of the clip down while pulling forward on panel.
Remove 4 1/4 inch bolts that hold blower duct to fan.
Push pulley upward while removing belt.
Use a small angled pick to remove pulley lock ring.
Install new washer and pulley. I added grease to pulley shaft.
Hope this helped. Good luck

After identfying that the problem was due to a damaged drum support roller, I decided to replace the bad roller instead of replacing the dyer itself.

The first thing was to remove the front cover
and the front panels to expose the drum. (Only a few screws hold them in place.) Next, the drum was removed by first releasing the belt from the motor pulley and tensioner, and then pulling the drum straight out.

At this point the two rollers would be exposed. The triangular plastic retaining locks were removed by slightly prying them off. The old rollers were then removed and replaced.

Before putting everything back, this was a good time to vacuum all the accumulated lint inside, especially the lint that had accumulated around the motor assembly and the fire box.

(A pleasant surprise: I found a lot of coins inside the unit, enough to recoup half of what I spent for the new rollers.)

The only thing I had to do was hammer the catch inside the square fitting and presto it was done. It took me less than 3 mins. I thought I might of needed instructions, but it was really simple. Even a guy can do it. (smile)

Removed 2 screws holding the lint trap on top, popped up the top and lifted back, removed 2 screws on the inside top of front panel, lifted front off and set aside then reached under the drum and pulled tension pully to loosen the belt, and removed the drum. popped the motor clams off and then used 2 adjustable wrenches to grasp the nuts at the front and back to remove blower fan. When you look for the area in back to loosen the blower fan you may notice the nut that you are looking for is actually part of the fan and is plastic looking rather than metal. I did have to take off the back cover to the blower fan to tighten it back up.I had seen instructions that the blower fan would have a 3/8 hole in the back of it to loosen it,but mine did not. I assembled it and it works great with my new motor and rollers. I received my part in 2 days, very happy