CDU600V Crosley Dishwasher - Instructions

I hand screwed the pieces together and screwed them by hand into the proper location in the dish washer. I turned on the dishwasher and it worked !!!!

My dishwasher hasn't been working for 6 years because of this broken part and I couldn't afford the house call of a tech. When I found your site I realized I could do it myself !

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Thanks to your diagrams and easy to order parts I am a happy homemaker !!!!!

This was really easy. I just took out the two screws securing the unit to the counter top and slid it out about 6 inches. Broken plastic spring linkage was obvious and easily accessible. I didn't know there was one on each side, I would probably have went ahead and ordered both and replaced them at the same time.

Disassembled my dishwasher and found the rubber on the impeller seal had deteriorated causing the leak. If this is all that is wrong with your unit, it is well worth the repair attempt. Find the service manual pdf on servicematters (dot) com for detailed instructions on removing and re-installing the part. The only thing I have to add is the on my first try installing the part, I still had a leak. I may have just had the motor/impeller slightly mis-aligned (the water tight seal is actually the carbon disk on the impeller rubbing against the carbon disk on the seal seat in the pump housing). On the second attempt I used silicone to glue the 'seal seat' into the pump housing (carbon side out). After waiting a day for the silicone to dry, the dishwasher ran without leaking. It continues to be leak free several weeks later.

First, I removed the screws that hold the interior part of the door in place. Next, I removed the two screws that covers the interior parts of the latch release in place. Then, I removed the broken latch, put in the new one and attached the spring. I put the pieces back in place, and the two screws back in. Finally, I screwed the door panel back together.

1) Emptied Dishwasher (roll-around model)
2) Tipped it onto its back
3) Removed Toe Kick (2 screws) and Bottom Cover (4 screws) (screw driver)
4) Opened Door to access side panel (careful not to let it drop on my fingers)
5) Using Torx driver, removed two screws holding side panel on. This makes it easier to access the linkage and spring.
6) Removed broken link
7) Installed new link and spring noting the spring direction from the spring on the other side of the door.
8) Pulled spring over the bottom rail bracket with pliers.
9) Reinstalled panels in the reverse order.

I removed the old door gasket and thoroughly cleaned the track. I placed the new door gasket in place- no problems.
I had to remove the 7 screws from around the door to access the old, crumbled gasket. This was accessed by removing 2 screws with a socket wrench. The old gasket pulled out and the new one slipped right in.
No more leaks!

Everything is straight forward with the following two exceptions; The threads that hold the motor fan to the impeller are left hand, and it takes a special tool to remove the top rotating assembly. It took about 4 hours to figure out what to do, and make the tool . I put it back together in about 20 minutes.

The problem was the rubber end on the upper shower head pipe at the pump. Not to hard . Slide dishwaser half way ouy the ptpe is on the right side.The bottom end is is just a clamp the top drops in from the top, inside there is a nut above the upper shower head. You can unsrew the nut with your fingers, it is right above the upper shower head.There it a washer at the top of the pipe that should be replaced that doesnot come with the pipe

Turned off power. Removed lower, two panels. Turned power back on and started dishwasher. Saw leak from 7' drain hose. Turned off power, disconnected hose, ordered new hose, installed on washer and routed back to garbage disposal. Turned on power, checked for leaks (none) and replaced 2 front, lower panels.

first I turned off the water to the dishwasher, and turned the power off for the dishwasher.
removed the 4 screws from bottom panel
then removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the counter,
at this point I could pull the dishwasher out. then figured out where the part went and attached.
pushed the dishwasher back and lined up the holes under the counter, put those in first, the put the bottom panel back on, turned the water back on, and flipped the breaker switch.
Reading the other stories really did help me get some idea of what needed to be done

Attaching the part to the door only took a few minutes but getting the dishwasher out over the hardwood floor that was installed after the appliance was put in was a pain. I had to remove a piece of the hardwood floor and use some technique to get it out of the opening so that the springs were visable. There is no problem after that. I would recommend using work gloves to stretch the spring over the retaining notch on the door so that you don't pinch your hand.

Unscrewed the inside door panel. Removed the reservoir assembly. Disconnected the wax motor. Replaced it with the new motor. Replaced the new o-ring. Done. The hardest part was finding out why it was not working and how to fix it. Google for a long time in order to find some idea what to do. Then took the door apart to see the reservoir and the wax motor. After that, it was pretty easy. HTH

I first removed the bottom access panel and 2 upper screws holding the dishwasher to the counter. Be sure to remove the standing water in the bottom tray. I pulled the chassis far enough forward to reach where the top shower hose attaches ( the supply line and wire had enough slack to move the chassis ). Not knowing how the rotating shower arm attached, I unscrewed the ribbed retaining ring above it, and found the whole assembly came loose - freeing the upper end of the shower hose. Put a shallow tray under the lower end of the shower hose to catch the remaining water and loosen the hose clamp to free the remaining end of the hose. Transfer the rubber washer at the top end and the hose clamp at the bottom, to the new hose and install. A quick repair, but one that shouldn't be needed on a 4 year old dishwasher.

I opened the dishwasher door, then used the Torx bit to remove the screws all around the edges of the door, and removed the inner part of the door. Then I removed the long metal plate at the part of the door farthest front (with the door open) and the large black plastic housing. The metal plate then became a useful tool to brace at an angle between the door and the body of the dishwasher. This not only held the spring-loaded door down, it also held the inner part of the door up against the body of the dishwasher.
One nut held the latch assembly to the door; I removed it with the nut driver.
On the latch assembly, there are two small plastic catches that keep the latch from sliding out, I held those out of the way with a blade screwdriver and slid the latch out.
The new latch then snapped into place, and I assembled the door again in the reverse sequence of disassembly.

The upper dish rack was in the way for my old body and short arms to reach the nut, so I had to pry the plastic bumpers off with a screw driver and remove the rack. From there you could almost do it with your eyes closed. Unscrew the old spray nut, screw in the new one and pop the spray arm on. Slide the dish rack wheels into the rail tracks push it closed, and insert the plastic bumpers. The only tricky part was the bumpers. You have to pry the forward-most piece of plastic away from the piece behind it. That pulls the holding edge out of the slot in the rail, and the bumper comes right out. Putting it back just takes a push from your thumb, and make sure the holding edge is back in the slot. Before I put the new nut on, I compared it to the removed one - it was obvious that the latching ring on the old one had been worn by the rotation of the Spray Arm, so the water pressure was all that it took to push it off.