CDEC100FW0 Crosley Dryer - Instructions
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loud squeeling noise
After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.
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Lewis from Thornton, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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Our door catch got lost inside the dryer after the door was slammed to hard
I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package
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Joyce from PORTAL, GA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people
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Latch on dryer no longer worked
So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.
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chris from dallas, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people
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door catch wasn't working and screws in door were loose.
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NICOLE from WEST JORDAN, UT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
10 of 27 people
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dryer wouldn't heat
Remove rear control panel cover and remove drum belt from pulleys. remove top cover by pushing in on the 2 hold down fasteners on the front with flat head srewdriver. remove front panel by removing the 2 screws and then pop it out by lifting up. disconnect the wires at the quick connect plugs and set the front aside. lift the drum up to pop it out of the bearing housing and move forward slightly to give youself good access to the wires for the heating element and disconnect the 2 wires. remove drum the reset of the way out and do your work. Replacing the heating pan and drum bearing is pretty obvious what to do. (just a few screws). remove thermal cutoff switch from old pan and install on new pan. reinstall in reverse. no need to label wires because it doesn't matter where the wires go an a switch (justs makes and breaks a circuit) and the heater doesn't matter as long as both wires are hooked up to complete the circuit. You can't mess up the quick connectors on the door. Only my heater failed but I also replaced the drum bearing as long as I had it all apart (only another ~$20). Take the time to clean out the dust from inside the dryer, it will help the blower motor run cleaner and cooler and last longer. I bought a belt also to have on hand for replacement. I didn't replace it since my old one was good and it is real quick to replace at a later time.
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Scott from Mukwonago, WI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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bearing bad and shaft broken
replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine
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Randall from New Roads, LA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 6 people
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Dryer making horrible squeaking sound when running
I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.
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SHARON from SUMMERVILLE, SC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
2 of 3 people
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Dryer stopped Heating
Ordered in new Element. (took apart dryer first and verified the coil on the old element was broken).
-Disconnected power
-Used flat blade screw driver and popped the top of the dryer off (two clips at front of the dryer on the door piece). Pull lid back and it will rest on its own.
-Removed two screws on the inside of the front door panel then used flat blade to pop four clips off. Lift up then out to removed door panel, drum will fall down.
-Removed small white plastic rest from front frame.
-Removed back silver vent to access motor. Pull the belt tensor away from assembly and pull belt out.
-Remove drum by grabbing belt and front of drum and forcing it up until it releases from the ball housing. Slide drum out of the front of frame/dryer.
-From here you can see the heating element. disconnect the coil wires (pull them). These are in series so it doesn't matter how they go back on. Disconnect the thermostat wires (X is negative lead).
-Removed the four screws from the back of the dryer to disengaged the element. Removed.
-Reassemble backwards.
-Disconnected power
-Used flat blade screw driver and popped the top of the dryer off (two clips at front of the dryer on the door piece). Pull lid back and it will rest on its own.
-Removed two screws on the inside of the front door panel then used flat blade to pop four clips off. Lift up then out to removed door panel, drum will fall down.
-Removed small white plastic rest from front frame.
-Removed back silver vent to access motor. Pull the belt tensor away from assembly and pull belt out.
-Remove drum by grabbing belt and front of drum and forcing it up until it releases from the ball housing. Slide drum out of the front of frame/dryer.
-From here you can see the heating element. disconnect the coil wires (pull them). These are in series so it doesn't matter how they go back on. Disconnect the thermostat wires (X is negative lead).
-Removed the four screws from the back of the dryer to disengaged the element. Removed.
-Reassemble backwards.
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Ted from Mountain Home, ID
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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Broken door handle
I unscrewed the 2 screws on the side of the door and the 2 screws on the bottom of the door, removed the broken handle and r replaced it with the new one.
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Susan from FULLERTON, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 person
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knob on dryer broke so it wouldn't turn the timer on
I know that the knobs on the Gibson dryers break as they are plastic and the back cracks so it won't turn. I have had to get several new ones over the years. I went to Google put in Gibson dryer knob and found it, I had the model number so that helped. I had the part within 24 hrs, awesome service from PartSelect.
Emma W
Emma W
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Emma from Omaha, NE
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 person
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Timer Knob broke off
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Regina from Richmond, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 person
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dryer was squealing loadly
took off face of dryer, removed drum 4 screws removed two srews holding bearing and shaft ,replaced shaft bearing and shaft . Just for preventive maintenance i replaced idleling arm and dryer belt. I lined everything up replaced drum used shop vac to clean lint and dust from all parts replaced face of dryer and boom i got a btand new dryer
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MIKE from MASSAPEQUA PARK, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
1 person
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Tumbler not moving
Removed back panel. Popped off top of dryer, then removed front of dryer. Slid belt onto tumbler, put front cover back on, put top back on and adjusted belt frombottom panel cover.
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Francis from Middletown, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
2 of 4 people
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Loud squealing
As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.
The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.
Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.
Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)
The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.
Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.
Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)
Parts Used:
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John from Avis, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person
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replace timer knob
I removed the cracked knob and attempted to replace with the new knob. Unfortunately my new knob did not fit. The internal diameter of the replacement knob was 2mm too small. I did not want to go through the hassle of returning and requesting another knob. So I just made it work. Thanks
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AG from Long Beach, CA
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
1 person
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