This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
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This gas valve knob measures approximately 2 12 inches in diameter. It is a black knob that has white lettering aroud its perimeter denoting the different temperature levels: low, medium, high, etc. T...
$41.31
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This is a 4-point re-ignition spark module. NOTE: This part has been redesigned by the manufacture, it may appear different but will still function the same.
$428.51
In Stock
Order within the next 7 hrs and your part ships today!
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Ramon
December 11, 2023
How to adjust the flame to eliminate or reduce yellowish color?
For model number CCGP2720P
Hello Ramon, thank you for reaching out. Based on our research, the yellowish burner flame indicates an incorrect air/gas mixture. To adjust the flame, you may follow the following instructions. Light the burner and set the control knob for low flame. Remove the control knob from the valve stem. Insert a thin blade screwdriver at the center of the valve stem and engage the blade with slot in adjusting screw. Turn the center stem, adjusting screw slightly to set the flame size. Replace the control knob when the adjustment is completed. A proper adjustment will produce a stable, steady blue flame of minimum size. We hope this information helps!
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This problem was driving me crazy for months. Of course, after I bought and installed the part and it still was not fixed I finally found a website that told me how to fix the clicking. The problem is that the removable head burners (#8 on the top assembly diagram) are not making good electrical contact with the base burners (#22). What I did was grab the head burners and grind them back and forth into the base burners with the weight on the heal of my hand. Steel wool or sandpaper would work too--you just want to clean the surfaces to restore electrical contact. If you still want to know how to replace the spark module start by removing #24. This will allow the removal of #9 (after you take the knobs off). You may have to do some fiddling cause the rubber gasket is sticky. Next there are 2 obvious regular screws for #14 and 2 not so obvious star screws in the space where the burner valves are. After #14 is off there are 2 screws on the spark module to be removed and one that you can't loosen that is in a slot. You wriggle the module out of that one.
unplugged unit from wall, disconnected gas line, and untaped the vent. disconnect the control knobs and unplugged and removed the control unit from the main unit. pulled the main unit out from the countertop and set it on a table. disconnect the burners and spark iginiters from the main unit. undo screws holding chrome brackets and stove base, to access iginiter. disconnect wiring from igniter and the one screw, replace iginiter. reverse everything to re-install
If you have a burner that begins to constantly flick without lighting, and/or flicks while you are lighting another burner, it is likely time to order a new ignitor. Once received, we first lifted the burner support rack, then the burner cap, then unscrewed the nut holding the metal bracket that holds the ignitor in place (years ago we had to "soak" the nut with a loosening spray prior to being able to unscrew it, so since then we do not tighten the nuts too tightly so that each nut is easy to unscrew by hand or with pliers if necessary). The previous steps allow one to lift the burner ignitor up and out of its resting hole. It will be connected to the electric wiring via a plastic connector. All one has to do is pull the wiring away from the ignitor and then push it up into the new ignitor. The plastic connector protects you from touching the live ends of the wiring. Voila! The burner lighted successfully.
