This is the replacement surface burner switch for your range. It measures approximately 1.5 inches by 1.5 inches, with a shaft that is approximately 1 inch long. The surface burner switch turns the su...
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Roberto
January 5, 2023
Do you have the cook top glass for this model?
For model number CCE3401B
Hello Roberto, thank you for contacting us. The cooktop glass, part number PS2077869, will fit your model. Customer service is available 7 days a week if you require assistance placing an order. Thanks again for reaching out!
My largest plate gets very hot even after adjusting the temperature to low. It has two spirals rings.
For model number CCE3401B
Hi Zack, thank you for reaching out. We have concluded that the issue is with the dual surface burner switch kit, part number PS2003583, which may need to be replaced. We hope this solves your problem!
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now. The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work: Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2 Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch. Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch. There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe. Good Luck
The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1) 2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire) 3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2) 4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element) 5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element) 6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light) 7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
This was a range top. i removed the 12 hex machine scews holding on the top, then removed the two star screws holding the old switch. there were fore wire that had fitted on tabs. Hooked them to the new swtch and reassembeld. Easy repair since i could lift the unit out without disconnecting main cables. Replacement range would have been oveer $1000. Psrt was under $40 and delivered in a matter of days.
