CASE7074NR3 Frigidaire - Instructions

followed the repair video and replaced thermal fuse and thermostat(recommend replacing both due to the problem could of resulted in either part being the cause),Repair went relatively easy.I also recommend to clean and vacuum the dryer while you have it all apart due to a lot of lint buildup and don't forget to unplug before servicing!Stay Safe!!!

followed the instruction on you tube, the part was exact, there was nothing to guess, basically you take the whole front off of the dryer, that in itself is easy (follow instructions), once you get to the element, just plug and play. the worst part was a set screw in the back that did take some patience, but finally did get it in. I am not a mechanic in the least, trust me, if I can do it then anyone can. you will need regular Philips screw driver and one short one, really short, mine is about 2 inches in length, also I used manual one, allot of plastic, so I would not recommend electric drill or electric driver. also a good pair of plyers, but small not large.

Remove top lid by pushing tab on either side with a putty knife. Disconnect the 2 wire carriages on right. Remove one
phillips head screw on each side that holds front panel to dryer body. Remove front panel by using flat head screwdriver to pry panel from body. Remove thermostat located on bottom right attached to front of motor on a plastic body by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnect wires and place on new part.

Just remove and replaced no tools required

I had difficulty getting the old part out to get the new one in. I just about had to take the gram apart to get to everything.

Tight quarters but went well, fairly easy except for the far back screw that secures the element to back of dryer. Would have been easier if I removed drum but I didn’t want to disassemble that much. All is good and wife is ?? . If need help with disassemble Utube is your friend.

Getting to the element and putting the machine back together, in my case, was the most difficult part. There are tons of youtube videos that can guide you through the removal and replacement better than I can. I recomend watching those videos and taking pictures of the old element prior to removing it. Also, I would put all the screws in separate ziplock bags with labels on them because every screw for my model was unique. I would also tape and label the electrical wires too.

I removed the front, top and back panels of the dryer, installed belt around drum and through the pulley system so the belt was snug, replaced all screws and panels, and done.

Unplugged dryer. Removed top panel (2 screws top back of dryer). Removed control panel ( Unplugged from control board and 2 screws) Removed front panel with door ( Unplugged light from control board, door switch at connector, and 4 screws) Removed Control Thermister from dryer exhaust blower housing located bottom front of dryer ( Unplugged 2 wires and removed 2 screws ) Installed new Control Thermister and replaced all screws and panels in reverse order. Note: Noticed connector for door switch seemed a little loose when connected correctly. Used electrical tape to reinforce connection. Plugged dryer back in and checked operation. Dryer has been used approximately 10 times since repair with no issues.

I replaced the Control Thermistor (part # PS1149368) by removing the two screws on the bottom of the lower panel below the door. You will see the Control Thermistor just below and to the left of the discharge chute. Remove the two screws holding the Control Thermistor in place. Disconnect the two wire and reconnect to new Control Thermistor. Replace screws in reverse order of above.

I researched possible causes on line and watched a PartsSelect video on YouTube on how to test. I ended up misreading test results and ordered the High Limit Thermostat but subsequently realized problem was the Terminal Block. No problem, PartsSelect took back the Thermostat (I hadn't installed it) and shipped me the Terminal Block. My dryer was back up and running in less than 7 days from initial analysis to installation of Terminal Block. Instructions that came in confirmation email for installation were perfect and easy to follow. Total cost with new power cord from Home Depot was less than $50 vs a quoted service call of $175+ parts from local electrician.

Such an easy repair that I should have done months ago. I knew the gasket was failing but kept fixing the old one until it finally broke apart and couldn't be reused. The new gasket installed within minutes and fit perfectly, not to mention I no longer have to deal with it every time I do the laundry.