This 3-coil 5500 watts heating element with housing is used to produce heat to dry the clothes in your dryer. The heating element is strung with a coiled wired. The wire receives, but resists a contro...
This high limit thermostat has a limit of 260 degrees Fahrenheit. Meaning that it will cut out when the internal dryer temperature reaches 260. This thermostat cuts back in when the temperature drops ...
This part controls the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum and prevents the dryer from overheating. This part is located in the blower housing.
This is a replacement screw for your washer or dryer. The screw is approximately half an inch in length and is a Phillips-head screw. It screws in from the outside of the drum, into the vane/baffle. T...
When I described the noise to a YouTube appliance diagnostician, I was directed to check the felt seals front and back of the rotating drum for wear, tears, or foreign objects. As it happens the felt seals looked find and there were foreign objects so, not wanting to disassemble and reassemble the dryer more than I had, I ended up replacing all the replaceable moving parts that I considered possible culprits: The idler tension spring, the idler tension bracket (which includes a nylon pulley wheel), the drum belt, the five rubber-tipped bearings that support the drum and keep it in place, and the foam seal on the blower housing which seemed a little brittle and old, as well as high-temperature adhesive for the latter. The instructional videos here and on YouTube were extremely helpful (I doubt that I would have attempted this job at all, had I not watched these ahead of time). The most time-consuming aspect was waiting for the arrival of the parts as I didn't order them all at the same time or all from the same place (I ordered from whomever could ship me a given part the fastest. Disassembly took less than an hour. Re-assembly with the new parts in place took about the same but was a little more awkward because this appliance sits in a very narrow closet and it's difficult to ensure that the 4" flexible duct stays in place when sliding the appliance back into the closet. No regrets. Now I know the basics if this dryer needs attention in future and I also know all the parts that I can eliminate as suspects in any future maintenance (the parts that I replaced)
Removed back of dryer with electric nut driver. Lots of screws. Removed old heating element to better access wires and thermostats. Removed baffle at end and transferred to new heater element. Transferred thermostats to new element, reconnected wiring in correct order. Installed new heater element in correct position using tab to locate. Replaced back of dryer. Reconnected dryer vent. Toughest part was squeezing out of space after reconnecting dryer vent. Unfortunately, too short for my weight.
All the symptoms indicated the thermister (located in the exhaust air stream of the dryer) was the problem. Pulled the lower panel off the dryer. Took out the two lower screws holding the door panel on so I could pull the front panel out just enough to get a screwdriver on the screws holding the thermister on. Unhooked the two wires connected to it and hooked them to the new thermister(no need to observe polarity). Put the new thermister in, screwed the door panel back down, put the lower panel on and started drying clothes.
