This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$17.95
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If your washer is noisy, spins slowly, or leaves clothes soaking wet, this splutch cam kit might be the fix. It helps your machine switch between washing and spinning by connecting the motor to the ba...
$52.95
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Having a problem with a funky-smelling washing machine, or one that just doesnt seem to clean your clothes as well as it used to? Say hello to the Affresh Washing Machine Cleaner by Whirlpool. This po...
This part is the replacement lid latch or latch assembly for your top-load washer. The lid latch holds your washer door closed, and allows the washer to run its cycle. If the lid latch is damaged, you...
$48.35
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This washing machine drain pump is a key component responsible for removing water from the tub during the drain cycle. Designed for select top-load washers, it ensures efficient water expulsion and su...
$161.19
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This part is the replacement lid latch or latch assembly for your top-load washer. It contains the latch mechanism and the connecting wire that hooks the door latch to the electrical system of the was...
$132.00
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Questions And Answers for CAE2745FQ1
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Sharlene
October 24, 2024
I need a control unit assembly. W11298479
For model number CAE2745FQ1
Hi Sharlene, Thank you for reaching out. If you need help placing an order, please feel free to reach out to our customer service at 1-888-260-4310 Monday to Saturday 8am - 9pm EST. We hope to hear from you soon!
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K.
January 3, 2025
Washer won't spin
For model number CAE2745FQ1
Hi, thank you for reaching out. We would suggest checking that the machine has not been overloaded, and the load is distributed evenly. If it is fine, the issue could be with the drain pump, part number PS11751719. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
Stuck on wash cycle and no led status lights are on.
For model number CAE2745FQ1
Hi Sam, thank you for reaching out. We would suggest checking the control board, part number PS17629498. It manages the operational commands of the washer, coordinating functions such as water levels, washing cycles, and spin settings to ensure efficient performance. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
I have replaced the selector switch, the drain pump 2x, lid lock, gearcase, and splutch. And washer still does not cycle. So at the end of each cycle if you take the drain hose and put it in the floor drain it will drain enough to then start spinning and the hose goes back up into the standpipe and then works again and each time this is what you have to do. Is it the wiring or the control panel? Or something else?
For model number CAE2745FQ1
Hi Aaron,
Thank you for your question. If you have replaced all of these parts and the washer will still not cycle correctly, check and make sure that the drain hose is not clogged and when you put it in the stand pipe there are no kinks, and that it is positioned correctly. The drain hose should be no more than 5 inches down the drain pump. If it is pushed down to far in the stand pipe, siphoning will occur. If this is not the issue, then you will need to replace the electronic control board, part number PS17629498. We hope this helps!
This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.
