C102 - Instructions

The repair was easy. First, I turned off cooktop circuit breaker. Then, removed the burner switch panel and the nut securing burner switch to panel. Disconnected the wiring and refit with new switch. Install switch panel and turned power back on. Now it's time to cook some dinner. Let's eat. :)

I purchased a replacement. I unplugged the cooktop. Unscrewed the little instrument panel and pulled it out. Turning over the panel, I noted the wires to the switch and photographed them in case I need to check them later. I pulled them off of the old, broken switch and put them onto the new switch, one at a time so that I couldn't get them messed up. Once all of the wires were switched, I removed the old switch and put on the new one. I then plugged in the model and tested the switch. It worked perfectly! IMPORTANT: I then tried to slide the panel back into the cooktop but forgot to unplug it first. This was a huge mistake, causing a nasty flash of electricity and smell. I unplugged the cooktop, put the panel back in, and replugged the cooktop. It worked, fortunately. Moral: ALWAYS unplug the damned cooktop when working on it!

took new element out of box, inserted it into stovetop, everything was over in about 2 minutes. It worked just fine.

Wife installed them, they just snap into place on the Rock Grate.

We found the youtube video created by partselect.com and followed it. We took the door apart, cleaned the inside, removed the old hinges and replaced them with the new ones. Now the door works perfectly!

Opened oven door. Inserted a small bent nail into the small holes on the hinge. This locks the hinge from closing all the way. Removed the chrome hinge retaining plates. One at each hinge. Lifted the door off the oven. Laid door on towel. Removed 3 screws from the top of door, three screws from the bottom of door. This allows you to separate the two pieces of the door. Clean all glass surfaces, including the ones under the middle glass panel. Removed 1 screw from each hinge at bottom of door. Pull hinge from bottom of door after removing screws. Insert new spring at top of door first, replace retaining screw. Realign the two door parts and replace all screws. Set door back on hinge pocket. Be careful to insure that the hinge seats into the pocket. Open door just enough to replace retaining plates. Process was easy, but it did not fix the problem completely. Bought heavy magnets from hardware store and installed them inside the door. This with the new hinge fixed the problem.

Unlike many here, the oven door closed enough to come up to temperature quickly and I could not feel any heat escaping. The oven worked fine but the light stayed on because the door just wasn't snug enough. I watched the great how-to video and ordered the hinges. They arrived in two or three days! I set up a work space, cued up the video again and the new hinges were installed in just a few minutes! But the door would not close enough to turn the light off! I did some more googling around and found the magnet trick! I just happened to have the perfect size magnet from a broken souvenir magnet! and now the light stays off! I stuck the magnet (about the size of a nickel) inside the door opposite the light button. This won't help if you have serious problems with the oven door, but it works if the only problem is the light!

Simply pulled the old filter out and put the new filter in.

I have a newer jenn air with the 3 prong elements. The original element was 3 prong 1900W only using one of the controls. Since the stove socket would accommodate 4 prongs I looked up the part for the older stoves (PS2357533)which had 2 elemants using both controls. The element plugged right in and I now have high heat like on my older models and it now grills like it should instead of just heating the stuff up. Highly recommended. One caution you will need a metal piece to support the element since the newer stoves do not use the metal bricketts with supports.

I can't believe I fixed the cook top in less than 30 minutes, including replacing the knobs and all pilot lens and now looks like new.

Turn off the power!!! Remove two screws from back of switch section and pull toward you. That was the tricky part; it wasn't obvious to me how to remove the section. Then simply revmove the witres from the old switch one by one and put them on the new part. Close it up and you're good to go.

I switched the circuit breaker off at the electrical panel, removed the burner switch assembly (two screws) from the cook top. The burner switches are held in place by a single nut over the control stem. I unscrewed the nut from the failed switch, disconnected the four electrical leads (one by one) from the old switch and connected them in the same position on the new switch and replaced the nut. The clips on the electrical leads were oxidized/tarnished so I cleaned them with emery cloth to assure good contact with the posts on the switch. Replaced the burner switch assembly in the cook top, energized the circuit and the burner works perfectly again.

Read privious fixes. Didn't know which control was bad but ordered two new ones. Marked locations of switch contacts and wire colors. Removed old controls. Installed new replacements and everything works fine. Thanks.

sorry, son did job. It went like a charm. Easy, quick, and works great.Thanks

The grease filter was 20+ yrs old and the mesh was falling of the frame. I was very pleased to find this replacement filter (the first filter I received was damaged....placed a call to PartSelect and have a new one the next day). Can't beat service like that!! Thank you, June Patten