C101 - Instructions

knobs fit perfectly

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

I removed the single screw on each side of the oven by the hinge to remove the hinge cover plate and expose the hinge opening. I lifted off the glass oven door up and out and set it on my work bench. The door is heavy because its glass so make sure the doors on the way to the garage are open to your work bench area. I installed the cover plates back on so i would not loose the little covers and screws. I removed the screws all around the door and set them in a cup and lifted up the inner part of the door and the hinges are exposed. After removing the screws that hold on the hinges it lifted right out. I cleaned all the glass and set the new hinges in and locked them down with the screws and installed back the inner part of the door to the outer part and returned all the screws back. I then removed they screws on the hinge covers. I did not loose them with 4 kids running around and lifted the door back into the hinge openings and pushed down and it locked in. I then put a little pressure down on the door and removed the little locking pins. I pushed the door all the down and installed the hinge covers back on and it works beautiful. I think the new hinges are better than the set that came with the Jenn-Air wall oven. Thanks Parts Select. Also the new hinges came in 3 days as promised.

change light bulbs

Removed two screws holding 4-switch panel, drew a simple diagram to assure placement of wires on correct terminals, removed and replaced switch.

Switch works fine, but original knob does not fit shaft of replacement switch. Will try to order new knob, but it probably won't match the old knobs, so range will have one new knob & three old ones. I wish the order page noted that new knobs must be ordered to fit the new style shaft.

Turned off the power at the circuit breaker panel. Removed the control knobs from each switch and the four palnuts under each knob. Removed the two screws inside the vent well that hold the escutcheon in place. Pulled each switch up as much as possible to expose the wires attached underneath to each switch blade. Remoced each wire and replaced them on the new switch. Same procedure for all four switches. Reassembled in reverse order. Turned on power and all four burners lit up and were regulated as if new. I saved $244.00 doing the repair myself.

Shut off the breaker! Removed down draft grill. Removed two phillips head screws and lifited switch plate out. Removed switches (2) and made wiring diagram as I went. Looked up Jenn-Air on line and ordered parts. Lost wirihng diagram in the process but still had two switches wired . Replaced all four switches. Everything working great. However while I was waiting on switches to arrive, somebody at the house was fooling with the switch plate and broke the on red indicater lens so now I'm ordering that. Oh well....

The element plugged in to the cook- top.The cook -top was working moments after i unpacked the element. thank you.

Jim B.

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.

Got a no-name tailor-it-yourself replacement switch from a San Jose, CA appliance parts store; but the switch was so cheaply made that it fell apart when I tested it.

Got a RobertShaw part from PartSelect and now the burner works perfectly.

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

First pulled the two screws holding the control with the switches. Then I unscrewed the nut holding the 6" burner switch and disconnected the wires on the switch and replaced the switch with the new one. Replaced the control unit in the range top and tested the repair.

I first had to purchase the replacement motor which was quoted from a high of $236 to a low at graingers of$100. 00. The counterman at graingers removed the blower fan from the motor for me with a special long handled allen key. I then degreased and cleaned the blower fan. I had to cut off the screws on the motor and replace the 3 motor isolators and the urethane foam around the motor. I had to thread the 3 wires from the new motor through the bx cable from the old motor and reattach the fan to the motor. Anyone wanting more detailed informatioin may contact me at:mablume@optonline. Net

We turned off the breaker and removed the screws holding the control panel in place. They are behind in the exhaust area.

The control unit was lifted up to reveal all of the wires and the switches. Using pliers I pulled off the connectors keeping up with which wire was from which connector. The switch then dropped out and the new one went in and wires were reconnected.

It was not difficult. Only challenges were that it was very dense and hard to get at the wires and you had to be careful to keep up with the wire locations.

Well worth the time...I can do something other than boil water on that burner!!

I first removed power from the stove at the breaker panel. Next, I used the assembly diagrams provided by the parts select website to determine how to open up the stove panel. I opened the oven door to access the four screws holding the front panel holding the knobs. I removed the screws and was able to tilt up the front panel to allow access to the four burner switches. It was easy to swap out the wires on the old defective switch to the new replacement switches. I replaced both defective switches in 15 minutes and tiled the front panel back down into its normal position and put the four screws back into the panel to secure it. Then I turned on the breaker and did a check to see that the parts I replaced were working properly. They were and the total repair time was around 30 minutes without rushing at all.