AWM393W Amana Washer - Instructions

I disconnected the water supply line to washer and moved washer into open area. I removed the front panel of washer to gain access to drain hose. I removed hose and reinstalled new hose. I did turn the hose holder inside the washer as it allowed the old hose to rub against the housing support of the washer causing the hose to leak. I was glad that I read the article that someone mentioned in their repair. The new hose was somewhat difficult to maneuver through the back of the washer and through the part that held the hose; otherwise, it was rather easy. Thanks for the feed back on your web page.

1. unplug unit 2. remove front access plate 3. disconnect tension spring on drive belt 4. remove 4 motor mount screws 5. disconnect intake and return lines from pump using a pliers to decompress compression rings and sliding lines off. 6. Manipulate motor and loosen drive belt from bottom of tub and let it hang. 7. tilt motor bottom out exposing pump and remove 3 screws using TREX head driver and remove pump. 8. install new pump

Part received was correct (5 days ARO). Removed motor assy from unit (left wires connected). Found drive belt was also worn out & obtained a new one locally. Seperated old pump from rusted motor shaft using 2 screwdrivers. Had to use a file to lightly "polish" rust off motor shaft to install new pump. On-line parts diagram helpful in getting belt properly alinged to idler pully. Machine now runs smoothly, dosn't leak and sound like new. Wife happy (me too)!

Rear panel has to be removed to access part. Removing controls top of machine, two screws lower left and right, will make back panel removal easier. Back panel hangs on 2brackets,protruding thru the panel, near the top, and 3 screws across the bottem. You will also have to remove the drain pass thru connecting the internal drain hose to the external drain hose. The replacement part does not have matching screw mount holes to those on the rear panel. Their is a square punch out with a tab on the replacement which can be used for the top mount screw. Use a drill and bit to round the hole. Mount replacement then drill a hole in the replacement for the the lower mount screw. 1 day service and works like new.

I found about 2-3 baby socks stuck in the pump and couldnt remove them so I had to replace the part. Unfortunately I found this website AFTER I took the bad pump off. So I ended up removing the lower front panel and then flipping the washer upside down and removing the bottom of the washer and taking the pump off because I couldnt see any other way to get it off. The new pump arrived very quickly and I put it back on and put the bottom panel back on and flipped the washer back right side up. I certainly made it more difficult then it had to be but it was still fairly easy. Now I see all I needed to do was remove the motor to get the pump off. Oh well.

Un plug machine. Turn off hot & cold water. Remove the front panel by removing the 2 screws at the botton & lift front from the bottom until it unhinges from the top. Tilt the washer back far enough to put a contaner to catch the water left in the hoses. Loosing the hose clamps so the water comes out slowly. If you remove the hose to fast your container won't catch the water. Do one hose at a time. Next disconnect the wiring harnes from the motor. Remove the 4 screws holding the pump/motor. Disconnect the belt from the washer. You will have to tilt the pump/motor to get slack in the belt. Remove the pump/motor & the belt will come with it. This is when I found that the belt was toast & I had to order a belt. Paid shipping twice. once for pump & once for belt. Seperate pump from motor by removing 3 screws. My pump came right off. Reverse the operation to install. REMEMBER TO PUT THE BELT ON BEFORE THE PUMP.

This washer was "professionally" repaired six months ago....that being said, I found two of the three Torx screws holding the pump to the motor to be lying inside the cabinet. This allowed the pump to move and wallow out the seal. Replaced the pump and replaced the screws correctly. No leaks, no problems. Pump is an exact replacement from PartSelect and ease of installation was no problem. Would suggest if you are going to replace the pump, order the three screws and replace them too.

Screw broke lose in agitator from drive bell stripped (plastic) for transmission gear. Received new Drive Bell and had to lightly cut out old from Agitator housing with saws all, cleaned years of soap build up on steel spline with wire grinder, lubed the Drive Bell inter and pounded on to spline gear with rubber mallet, I thought a bit too much force but what the heck I landed to the same bearing point as before. Work Out Great.

After receiving the new hose we replaced the hose and tested the washer by running a rinse cycle. The new hose fixed the problem.

Removed motor apparatus with socket, took off water pump with star srewdriver . Installed new pump. Replaced belt. Schematic diagram big help...

Hardest thing was moving washing machine away from wall. Two screws on panel. One screw for hose.

First I removed 2 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I connected the new value and put it back in place. I then put the screws back in place.

This was very easy and it solved my problem

Thanks a lot

1. Removed the hot and cold water hoses. 2. Undid one screw holding on the solenoid mounting plate. 3. Pushed the plate in at the top to unlatch the plate at the bottom. 4. Pulled the plate out and undid the output hose. 5. Replaced the solenoid assembly held on by two screws. 6. Replaced it all in the revers order.

Removed the cover on the washer controls. Loosed the knob and popped it off. Then disconnected the plug and replaced with the new part. Put th ekonb back on and closed it all up. It was pretty easy. Took longer to reomove all the screws than it did to remove and replace the part.

had to completely disasemble whole washer drum and mechanical components to remove upper bearing on transmission,the drum hub was corroded on the shaft. I had to use a gear puller and a propane torch to get the hub off upper shaft of the transmission. then press the bearings in the respective sheet metal supports. reassembly was alot easier than taking it apart. Not a job for an average homeowner. It would not have been repaired without the wheel puller. all the seals were reusable A week and a half of use later no leaks and works great