AWM392L Amana Washer - Instructions

First I unscrewed the bottom of the front panel.
Then I realized the front panel pulls off from the top.
(manuals are helpful only if read!) I took the tub hose off at the tub and used my wet vac to remove all the excess water. (no towel needed) Using the appropriate size torx head bit, an extension and a small socket wrench to undo the screws holding the pump. I had to push and pull the bottom of the tub slightly to get proper room for the small socket wrench. pull the pump down and off. take the hoses off and place them on the new pump. reverse the process. tighten the clamps and replace the front cover.

Unhooked the idler pully spring, removed the 2 hoses from the pump outlets, unhooked the idler pulley srring to slaken the drive belt tension, removed 4 bolts from the motor mount to drop the motor, and slipped the drive belt off the transmission pulley.

Removed 3 torx screws that secure the pump. The pump was stuck to the motor motor shaft from corrosion and had to knock the pump off with a hammer. Reassembly was a breeze.

The most serious problem I had was a black widow spider lurking under the transmission pulley. Never did get it!

Found out that these switches go from time to time and are usually the culprit when the washer won't operate. Opened the cabinet facing. Warning: there are plenty of YouTube videos on opening Maytag washers. None helped me with this model. I ended up finding the screws to open near the floor on front. Once it's opened, just replace the faulty switch, reconnect and you're in business. Getting the washer opened was about the hardest part of this repair. Total cost: Less than $30.

I was at work but a friend of ours and my husband did the repair. But what I was impressed about is how fast we got the part. thanks a lot

Wow! My husband and I researched the problem online and ordered the part after reading from others how to take the machine apart. We are very unhandy, so we felt quite an accomplishment fixing the drain hose with rubber elbow ourselves! Thank you for the diagrams that so clearly showed the part we needed to order.

replaced belt that was wore out. decided to replace pump while I had washer apart.

We did not have instructions on how to remove broken agitator. Looking online, we found easy instructions but found it difficult to remove the agitator even though it was supposed to be an easy task.
Our particular model was supposed to "pop" off with little resistance. Not so!
It took some stong muscle and will power to remove the part but putting the new agitator on was simple.

remove front cover disconnect water supply remove hose clamp,take drain line replace with new hose reconnect water supply replace front cover job complete.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

Since the agitator and bell housing seperated as once piece from the drive shaft I didn't have to remove them and the schematic showed how the agitator snapped on to the bell housing and the parts I needed for the fix. The new seal went on with no problem, I just used some of the supplied grease on the tight spots. The hardest part was attaching the bell housing. It came to within an inch of the top of the shaft with no problem with a rubber hammer. But the top screw shroud broke when I tried to hammer it the rest of the way using a wood dowel and a block of wood. I couldn't even get the threads of the supplied screw to even touch the drive shaft. So I bought a longer (1 inch) cap screw from the hardware store and added a washer and suplied ring. After torqing it to 5 ft-lbs instead of the 10-20 the plastic beneath the screw was looking kind of thin and stressed and I was afraid of it breaking through or the screw snapping off in the shaft, so I left it alone and used some silicone caulk to seal in the plug that goes in on top of the screw since the side of the shroud broke off. I slipped on the agitator and am testing a load now as we speak. If I get ten more years out of the washer it will definitely be worth the $100 in parts and shipping !

Unplug the electrical cord. Remove the front cover with two screws at the bottom. Unhook the front two springs on the tub that secure it to the floor of the machine. Tilt the tub back as far as possible. Remove the electrical connector to the motor at the motor with the plastic tab release. Remove the four screws that attach the motor mount to the floor of the washer. Unhook the two hoses that attach to the pump on the motor bottom. Catch the water in a towel or in a flat tray. Unloop the belt from around the pulley on the bottom of the washer tub shaft and remove the motor, pump and belt as a unit. Remove the brake pads by removing the single bolt atop each one and pull it out of the machine. This will take the longest amount of time. You will have trouble getting the new pads in position, especially the one at the back. You many need to gently spread the brake disks to allow the pads to enter using a padded screw driver. Lightly lubricate the new brake pads before installing with silicone grease and replace the bolt and grommet with the new ones provided on each. Using a torx screwdriver, remove the pump from the motor and discard the worn belt. Remove the idler pulley using snap ring pliers and replace with a new one. Install the new belt and idler. Replace the pump with a new one, or reuse the old one if it seems in good repair and is not too old (mine was 15 years old--I replaced it). Remount the motor, pulley and belt on the machine and secure with 4 bolts--loop the belt around the main pulley on tub shaft. Reattach the hoses to the pump. Reconnect the electrical supply to the motor. Rehook the two spring to the front of the tub. Plug the washer back into the wall outlet. Pour in a couple of gallons of water into the tub before starting to ensure that the pump does not operate in a dry condition. Start and test operation. Be Happy. Wash hands and have a cold one.

Removed the tub from outer shell/washer body completely. This made it easier to work. Removed the agitater by pulling upward. Used gear puller to remove bell housing and bell seal exposing the 1-1/2" nut holding down the hub. I remove the stainless steel tub liner exposing the hub assembly. Used the an impact wrench and 1-1/2" deep well socket to remove nut. Used the gear pullers to remove the hub assembly. It crumbled as I tried to remove it, so I used a dremel tool cutter and began cutting it apart. Removed the pieces with a chisel and rubber mallet. When the hub was finally removed' it was easy to remove hub seal and replace. Make sure everything is cleaned up, smoothed and lubricated before reassembly. I also replaced drive belt and pump. It was easy with outer shell completely removed. The washer went back together according to directions. Allow seal glue to set overnight and found there were no leaks.

remove motor and pump togather 4 bolts holding unhook two hose unplug electrial connector and slide out remove 3 screws holding pump to motor be aware of direction belt from moter to tub then place new pump back at same location as old pump replace motor with pump attached back to same location as begfor

Removed the back plate. Disconnected the inside water hose. Unplugged the electrical contacts. Pulled out the old valve, connected the water hoses to the valve, plugged in the electrical contacts, reconnected the inside water hose, and put the plate back on the washer. The hardest part was putting the plate back on the washer. This entire repair would have been exceptionally easy except that I had to sit on top of the washer and hang upside down to do the repair due to the extremely small space the washer was in.

Unplugged washer, turned water valves off, disconnected water lines from washer with adjustable channel-lock wrench. Water inlet valve was mounted on its own plate that needed removed using a screw driver. Disconnected the electric sensors and disconnected the outlet hose. Valve had to be taken off the mounting plate with a nutdriver. Replaced valve and reconnected everything. Water pumped in 10 times faster.