ART318FFDB02 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

i removed the back cover off in the icebox,removed the fan motor,replace the new one now it works fine.very easy to do,saved alot of money on a new one.

Discovered that the fan in the freezer was not working properly. Removed the ice maker, paneling, wire harness and inserted new motor. Worked immediately and began circulating the cold air into the refrigerator.

I actually followed the instructions by William. He did a great job. I ran into some difficulty because the wire connector on the replacement motor didn't match the old connector. We had to replace the connector on the new motor to match the wiring harness, which was easier than trying to match the connector on the motor. Had the connectors matched, the replacement would have taken less than 30 minutes to complete.

The fridge went warm and I noticed ice build-up on the freezer floor underneath the coils. I mistakenly thought that the defrost heater (or thermostat or timer) must have been the culprit. I used a voltmeter to test those components and chased a wild goose for quite sometime before realizing that the evaporator fan was not spinning and that it failed a test with the voltmeter. Replacing the fan easily fixed my problem! I later realized that the sheet of ice on the freezer floor indicated that the defrost cycle had been working. Were that not the case, the ice would have been all over the coils.

Took the old fan motor out and installed the new one. Wow it's getting cool now. Thank You Parts select for the information on your site. Fast shipping. Very pleased I found your site, which stated it was the fan motor 45% of the time. It saved me from having to have a repairman come to my home. I called one but he did'nt work in this area. They gave me another man's number, and I called and left a message on the recorder, but he never got back to me. So I was happy to have found your site. Thank You again!

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I did remove the run capacitor of the starthing kit of compressor and another one new. It work fine.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I simply watched the repair video and did it! Super easy, needed start device and capacitor. As easy as unplugging the old and adding the new. The video helped and gave me confidence. Wives can fix fridges too! Saved me $2500. Looks like I'll need a new excuse if I want a new fridge.

first remove ice maker 1-screw on the bottom all the way out and two screws on the top half way out slide up and out and unplug wiring as you remove then remove back panel unplug ground wire remove screws that hold fan assembly unplug wiring remove pressed on fan blade put new motor in reasemble and it was good to go

I unplugged the unit Frist. Then I removed the grill covering the compressor and fan from the back. I then located the rear wheel and pin. I bent down the retaining tab and removed the pin and wheel. I installed new wheel and pin and bent retaining tab back to origional location. Replaced grill and checked unit for proper operation.

the repair it good and easy ,vo helper to do it.

Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.

Following the info on another post from partselect site: Unplug the main refridgerator line from the outlet. Removed icemaker(didn't have this hooked up to operate), 2 screws and 1 hex nut; removed back panel of freezer wall (interior), be mindful of wiring harness on the left of panel, 2 hex nuts: unplugged fan motor from wiring harness, removed motor with 2 screws, gently, but firmly pulled fan blade off (a little tricky due to housing bracket around it) carefully noting 2 soft rubber gaskets that holds the unit in bracket. replace motor with new one ... follow above steps in reverse. helpful to have a small flashlight. make sure soft rubber gaskets are seated in place. Fan blade requires a firm but gentle push back on the metal post ... bottom of back panel seats over an opening in order for it to fit snug against the wall. I am totally satisfied with the info and seamless, expediant service with partselect ... thank-you so much ..