ARR301 Amana Range - Instructions

Replace the connector and bracket, spliced the wires, put heat to the schrink wrap and I was done.

I raised the stove top, read the instructions to my son while he did the work, then I lowered the stove top, installed the burner, and it worked like magic.

One screw taken out, 2 wires switched, new part & screw put in. Burner like new!

Read instuctions first Turn breaker off to stove or unplug to be sure. Remove burner and drip pans. Remove scews holding socket in place if you are doing more than one make sure you keep in same location. Raise cook top untill supports latch in. Assemble plug it comes with two types holder compare to your plug. cut wire to old plug so you have enough wire to connect back with new. Strip wire back and place shrink tubeover wires wire nut together heat with a lighter or heat gun then do remaining plugges. place back in cover and replace scews. make sure wire are not to long to get under burner when cook top lowered. Lower cook top and clean burner plug ends with a little sandpaper to make sure they make good connection. replace pans and burner. turn on breaker or plug in stove making sure the burners come on when turned on good luck g.d.

Cut the two wires approx 1 inch behind old connector and removed one screws to remove old connector, stripped approx 3/4 inch off the wires and connected them to the new wires on the new connector with wire caps and shrink wraps which came with the new connector. Replaced the old screw with the new screw and the job was completed. Be sure and disconnect power before starting!!

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

shut off circut breaker. un pluged stove removed back panel disconected 2 wires on element. removed 1 screw that holds element in place pull out old element put in new reassemble

I removed the burner element, then the drip pan. I took off the old block. Then I had to strip the old wires. Then I put on the heat sleeve, then attached the new wires to the old wires with nuts. Put heat sleeve over this and heated with lighter. Then put everything back together.

Ordered wrong part at first caused me to blow out two elements. With the help of PartSelect I was able to get the right surface block terminal and replaced both of them, then found out I had a bad switch, they got the switch within 2 days I had my stove working good again. Thanks to PartSelect. Also watched the video which was very helpful ML

Remove heating element coils. & old drip pans. Install the new drip pans and reinsert the heating elements and insure all elements were level. For aesthetic reasons I replaced all the drip pans - 2 x 8" & 2 x 6".

Was able to unplug the old burner and plug the new one in. Very easy.

I read instructions and hints online. Then, I pulled the range out from between the cabinets and unplugged it (carefully). I used a small Philips head screwdriver to remove the 10 metal screws holding the large metal sheet on the back of the oven. Then I removed the 4 screws holding on the metal sheet on the upper level of the back of the range since it had to be removed to move back the big sheet metal away from the back. The large metal sheet has the power cord threaded through it on the bottom and I left that in place. I then removed the oven door by lifting it up off the hinges after I removed the screw on each side that held the door on the hinges. The door is quite heavy for a girl. I unscrewed the plate at the back of the broiler element, unhooked it from the hangers, and carefully pulled the connectors apart from the oven wiring and the dead broiler element. (Being completely unfamiliar with this kind of connector it took me some time to figure out they slid apart.) Following advice online I had used electrical tape to tape down the wires so they wouldn't slip backwards out of the oven. The new broiler element connectors slid smoothly and easily into the oven wires. I removed the electrical tape I had used as temporary holders, hung the element on the previous wire slings and removed the new wire slings for a backup. I screwed back the plate on the new element into the back of the oven wall. I used the part number orientation on the element to make certain I had it right side up. If I have to do this again it will be easy and take very little time. My biggest problem was getting the oven door back on because it was heavy for me and I was too short to be able to see what I was doing as I repeatedly tried to get the oven door and hinges aligned. Eventually the door was back on and screwed down. Everything that had been unscrewed was put back in place and screwed down tightly. The oven and broiler are working perfectly.

I shut off the breaker checked for power then cut old plugs making sure to allow a little slack. Tightened down wire nuts put on a couple wraps of electrical tape and that was it. Burners work great now I would reccomend this product to anyone with a similar problem.

Description of the element indicated that it would work for the oven burner. However, it obviously was meant for the broiler element. I had to remove the thin metal piece with the attachment holes in it (the holes didn't match the holes in the back of the oven). To install I had to drill two holes in the remaining attachment flange to match the holes on the back of the oven. Then I made three metal supports out of sheet metal to hold the element up approximately 1 1/2" off of the bottom of the oven. Just thankful to find one that I could make work. Oven works fine now. LF

I had no trouble replacing the Broiler heating element, total time 30 minutes. Just had to pull the range out to unplug it and remove the back sheild of the range, then remove the two push on electrical connections. Then removed one screw holding the element to the inside of the oven, replaced with the new element, attached the connections, but the back sheild back on and it was done.