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ALE643RAC (PALE643RAC) Amana Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the ALE643RAC
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Dryer drum wouldn't turn and motor would shut off
First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!
Parts Used:
Dryer Clampmotor
  • Cynthia M from Westfield, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Button to start dryer
Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!
Parts Used:
Door Switch Kit
  • Loretta E. from Miamisburg, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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The dryer made a random grinding/rubbing noise during operation.
After removing the lower access panel, I observed the drum and belt and saw it turning freely. The support rollers in the back turned freely and were in good condition as well. At odd intervals the unit made a humming or grinding noise, and i decided to check the blower wheel (the other rotating part in the system). I found that the central hub of the wheel (which is made of a nylon like plastic) had sheared off from the wheel itself. I ordered a new part and started to remove the old wheel. **NOTE** many of the stories I read described how this part would have a reverse thread, it did not and that cost me an extra 30 minutes to figure out (the new part had arrows showing the correct direction to put on and remove - the original didn't). Once everything was cleaned and reassembled, I started the dryer again, but got no heat. I had previously replaced the heating element, so I thought my wiring was wrong. That wasn't the problem, but a hint from this site about checking the incoming wiring was the solution, my ground wire had come off the terminal in the back of the dryer and I wasn't getting the volatge across the element that it required. With the ground wire back in place, everything worked fine.
Parts Used:
Blower Wheel
  • Timothy from Hardeeville, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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belt was cracking and dryer was somewhat noisy
I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.
Parts Used:
Thrust
  • Melody from Silverton, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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will not blow air
I first unpluged the dryer. Then I
Removed two screws and removed bottom cover, Then removed the door assembly.Here I had to unplug the light and door switches. I then removed the four screws that holds the tub mount in place, Then I removed the eight screws that hold the blower cover in place, then removed the blower. replaced blower and reassembled in reverse. I started the dryer and it worked fine.
Parts Used:
Blower Wheel Multi Rib Belt
  • Robert from Ada, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Dryer was not heating up.
The video on the web-site was very helpful in showing how to take it apart. First we remove the power plug from the wall outlet. Then we used flat scrapper to push the top two hidden clips to release the Dryer's top. We used the nut driver to unscrew the two screws that held the front panel. We carefully remove the wires that were connected to switch sensor for the door, and the lights. Next step was to unscrew couple more screws that held the front piece from the main fan housing. At the bottom locate the tensioner of the belt. Release it. Remove the dryer drum with the belt. We took the opportunity to clean off the lint that was all over on the bottom of the dryer. We then could reach the bottom left back of the dryer to unscrew the screws that held the heater unit. Before that we unscrew and release the wires for the Thermal fuse and the limit thermostat which are all located on the heating unit. Then we replace with new pieces. Upon removal of the heating unit we noticed the broken heating element. Next was to place the drum back in. We made sure that the drum lined up with the rear support piece then the front. We rotated the drum just to make sure that it was sitting correctly. Then we screwed the front housing unit. Then we put the front panel back on the hooks at the bottom. That help to line up the front panel with the main chasis. We connected all the connectors to the right terminals. Last was to set the top down on to the chasis. We checked that the duct in the rear is not obstucted. Lastly was plugging in the power cord and testing the dryer. It is working again. Thanks to Part Select's video and parts. Total time was just over half an hour.
Parts Used:
Heating Element Limit Thermostat High Limit Thermal Fuse
  • Kenneth from Fort Wayne, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Cylinder Seal came out
Early in the life of my dryer, the Cylinder Seal came out. For the past two years I put off buying the part. When it came in, I p[opped the top of the dryer, removed the two screws holding on the front panel, and pulled the Cylinder of the back wall of the dryer. I then placed the seal in the right spot, glued it down and reassembled. About Fifteen minutes of work and a cheap part, and now my dryer dries a l;oad of clothes in an hour instead of three.
Parts Used:
Cylinder Felt Seal
  • Marcia from Hammond, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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was making a loud noies
unpluged the dryer,and removed the top.
took the front of the dryer off,release the belt and removed the drum.
unbolted the idler lever.

then I put it back together.
the bolt that holds the idler lever will be a little hard to replace for some.
Parts Used:
Dryer Idler Assembly
  • lonnie from mebane, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
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noise in dryer
took frount off ,then filter, pulled drum out, then blower plate & spun impeller off. went back together easy ,except belt . that gave me a little problem but finally got it thanks
Parts Used:
Blower Wheel
  • JOHN from MODENA, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Dryer sounded like it was going down manhiem road (pot holes).
I removed the access panel on the lower front. Then I removed the front door panel (noting where the wires went; 1 for red, 2 for black, 3 for grey). Then I removed the 2 screws holding the top down and lifted it up. Then I reached underneath the drum and took the belt off the tensioner. Then I removed the front drum panel with the lint filter, guides, and front felt seal. Then I took out the drum. Then I replaced the roller and post (with bracket). The old post was worn, so it was a good thing I got the new post (thanks to someone else's reccomendation). Then I put it all back together. It was surprizingly easy. I just wish these parts weren't so dad gum expensive. I paid $20 for one roller and post. I wish I could have also replaced the felt seals ($17 each), the other roller (another $8) and the sliders and felt pads ($20 per side). And a new belt. By then, you might as well buy a new dryer!
Parts Used:
Drum Support Roller Drum Support Roller and Shaft Assembly
  • Bradley from Crest Hill, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Noisy and blower wheel spin without turn motor shaft
Removed lower panel, door assembly, belt and drum.
Removed blower wheel cover.
Used dremmel tool to cut plastic from metal that attaches the blower to the motor shaft.
Used adjustable wrench to keep motor shaft from turning.
Used vise grip to clamp on metal and turned to loosen blower wheel.
Attached new blower and re-assembled.
Parts Used:
Blower Wheel
  • William from FORT WAYNE, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Wrench (Adjustable)
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Threading the drive belt around the motor and tensioner pully.
I followed the instructions and it went very well. The only confusing part was the drive belt for the tumbler barrel I just had to visualize the threading arrangement to get it right. Much like a car fan belt.
Parts Used:
High Limit Thermal Fuse
  • Steven from STANCHFIELD, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Squealing when running
I had already taken the dryer apart prior to changing the felt seal. Had oiled the rollers, greased the bearings & vacuumed the whole inside of the dryer out. Had used a high temp lubricant on the seal & had stopped squeaking for about a month. I ordered 2 seals & when they arrived, I popped the top of the dryer off using the putty knife to pry the spring latches. I opened the top up & leaned it against a wall. I disconnected the wiring to the light & the switch in the door, making note of the wiring order. Then used a nut driver to take the 2 screws from the inside out, that holds the front cover in place. Then the same for the 4 screws holding the front bulkhead in place. Then lifted up & out from the unit. Then used the putty knife to scrap the adhesive & old seal off the bulkhead. Cleaned as much of the adhesive off, then applied some high temp silicone adhesive to the bulkhead, placed the new seal on, using some clamps to hold it in place. After making sure it had adhered to the seal & bulkhead. Did the reversal of the above mentioned steps. Moved the unit to laundry room, plugged it in then started it & voila no more squeaking dryer.
Parts Used:
Cylinder Felt Seal
  • Eric from Carlsbad, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Vent filter was broken, and lots of lint was passing through to vent line
Removed the two nuts at the bottom of the dryer front to be able to move the front piece. Removed three screws holding the vent assembly in place. Removed vent assembly, replaced with new part and replaced screws and nuts.
Parts Used:
Lint Duct Assembly
  • Amy from Petaluma, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Worn Felt Seal
remove bottom two screws on lower front panel, remove panel. remove two screws on lower portion of door panel, pull bottom panel towards yourself to release pins at the top. Disconnect wiring for light and door switch (make sure to note what wires go where. Complete removal of front door panel. Remove 4 screws holding cylinder frame in place, lift to remove. remove remnants of old felt seal, use rotary tool to remove excess glue, etc. apply glue (used rubberized gorilla super glue), apply felt seal - allow glue to set up. reinstall in reverse direction from removal. Be sure to use glue as there are no clips or other retaining pieces for the new felt and it will not hold in place. overall pretty easy.
Parts Used:
Cylinder Felt Seal
  • robert from hillsborough, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the ALE643RAC
121 - 135 of 582