ALE643RAC (PALE643RAC) Amana Dryer - Instructions

First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--

The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

Removed 2 screws from dryer lower front panel and removed panel. Then removed upper front panel (no screws, just clips). Removed screws from existing duct assembly (2 for the duct assembly and 3 that held the top of the assembly to the dryer opening (and the reason for removing the upper front panel). Original part was a two piece assembly, new one is a single part, using less screws. New part is also deeper that original assembly. There was enough room for the extra size. Installed new part, replaced top 3 screws, top panel, and bottom panel. The replacement was very straight forward. Anyone that has done this before could do it in a few minutes but without prior knowledge or a manual, it took a full 1/2 hour to do the replacement.

I was somewhat intimidated by the fact that dryers are all repaired from the front. Pulling out the drum seemed scary at first, but that turned out to be very easy. After removing the front panel and lint shroud it is easy to reach the idler pulley and take the tension off the belt. If you're going to replace the rollers which is generally the cause of the noise, get new retaining wrings and a decent pair of pliers for them. The rings can lose all their spring easily by strechting them too far to get them off. Replace the idler pulley and belt while you have the dryer apart. Vacuum all the lint out of there and you're good to go.

Installed new timer control unit . Dryer then operated normaly.

the timer moter bench tested ok. I wonder if there was really a problem with a relay that keeps the timer on during the cycle.

popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale

Opened things, saw lint buildup, cleaned inside of dryer, then cleaned entire vent discharge system, put new thermal fuse back, turned on dryer and heard metal to metal, opened dryer back up, saw missing glides (both gone). Ordered what I thought were 2 glides, 2 days later 1 showed, called and was told I didn't "update" when I changed order info (parts supplier cautioned to replace 2, should only sell in pairs) so then had to wait again for 2nd glide to show up. Replaced them today and noticed dried clothes are now cooler when finished. Will note in future if clothes are warmer, clean ductwork.

unplugged power cord, pulled timer knob off of stem, removed screws at rear of control panel, swung top of panel forward, LEAVE WIRES ON TIMER, used screw driver to release timer lock tab, turned timer to unlock retaining tabs, NOW REMOVE WIRES ONE AT A TIME AND PLACE ON CORRESPONDING TAB ON NEW TIMER, install new timer by placing tabs in openings and turned to lock in proper position, making sure lock tab snapped into place, put panel back in position, replace screws, replace knob on timer stem, plug power cord in, test cycle for operation,CONGRATULATIONS, it works!

Had to figure out how to open the dryer - bottom screws in front and work up, removed the drum and found the fan blade was broken. Had some difficulty removing the fanblade from the motor shaft but after that the new one was easy to install. I did need help to place the belt and drum back into place. as one person has to hold the belts on the pulley while the other adjusts the belt while putting the drum back into place.

At first i thought i had to buy new dryer, because i did not know what to do.I said, i never done this kind of repair before, well i put everything apart and notice that the idler pulley was worn out, then i said this is something that i can fix it if i get the part. I made several calls and couldn't find it. so went in internet and found it with you.

I followed the instructions found on this site. The hardest part was figuring out how to release the clamps at the front of the dryer so I could remove the top.

The key was to unbolt the clamps at the back of the dryer first, then to use a putty knife to release the two clamps at the front of the dryer that hold the top to the front.

The rest was easy by following the steps already listed on this site and removing the two front pieces, then the drum and replacing the parts. Putting it back together was simple since I placed things in order and had taken pictures with my cell phone as I went through the process.

The time I took, included vacuuming the inside of the dryer thoroughly. Now it runs like new.

Unpluged dryer from outlet, disconnected vent, positioned dryer on side, removed screws from bottom panel, pulled pannel away from dryer body to gain access to motor. Disconnected drum belt from motor pulley, disconnected wire harness from motor. Removed motor mounting bracket assembly and placed entire assembly on floor. Removed clamps and blower assembly from old motor, installed new motor and reassembled. Very easy project, hardest part requires some trouble shooting knowledge to determine the exact cause of problem.

After taken apart to replace high limit thermostat fuse and limit thermostat took about 5 minutes. Also our dryer always ran very hot no matter what setting it was on. Replaced idler pulley wheel also because seemed not to rotate very well. Put all back together and worked perfect. Ran and does not overheat now.

Repair parts were exact OEM, went very smooth.
Longest part was cleaning the inside of dryer and cutting new vent pipe exit.

Door switch was very easy to replace as it simply snaps in for the outside and you just clip on the two control wires that already have clips on them.