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Questions And Answers for AER5630BAS0
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Eduardo
July 5, 2021
Large heating element will not regulate heat, it will go to maximum heat always even if you put it in #2
For model number AER5630BAS0
Hello Eduardo, Thank you for the question. Normally this is an indication the switch that controls the element is defective and will need to be replaced. We hope this helps!
Hi Mitchell,
Thank you for your question. If the large burner overheats, the burner switch that controls it may be malfunctioning and you will need to inspect it. Before removing and inspecting the burner switch, unplug the range from the electrical outlet. First check the wires near the switch for any signs of burning, or overheated wires, and terminals. If no issues are found, remove the switch in order to test it for continuity with a multimeter. Set your multimeter to the Rx1 setting and touch the probes to the L1 and H1 terminals. Once you have completed that test, touch the probes to the L2 & H2 terminals. If your test results indicate that there is no continuity between one or both sets of terminals, you need a replacement burner switch. If the switch is fine, check the element. Visually inspect it first for any signs of bubbling, burning, wear, holes, or damage. If there are no visual sigs of damage, use your multimeter and touch each of the terminals one at a time with one probe while holding the other probe to the outside surface of the element. If either terminal shows continuity, it is defective. To test the entire element for continuity, place each of the probes on the terminals, one on each. The exact reading you should receive varies between models, refer to your owner’s manual to determine what yours should be, but if any element has a reading outside of 19 to 115 ohms, it is defective.
If you do not receive the correct readings from the tests above or find damage on your element, you will need a replacement surface burner element. We hope this helps!
Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!
first I pulled the stove from the wall. Then unplugged the stove from the wall (electric stove) for safety. then I removed the middle back panel screws(2) and then the panel. I then pulled the wires off the heating element that was bad. I took the screws (2) off the heating element inside the oven. I had to use WD-40 to loosen the screws because with the heat they were really stuck. I removed the heating element and replaced it with the one I got through partselect.com. Put everything back and walla finished. Partselect.com sent me the right part at the right price and fast. No hassles at all.
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.