ADB1500AWB1 Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

I Followed others' instructions already posted to replace the whole handle assembly. In particular, use a big screwdriver placed against the bottom of the handle and whack the grip with the palm of your hand to get the handle to move back to the open position so you can open the door and start the job. I am no handyman, but this fix was easy, about 30 minutes in all, most of which was spent figuring out which breaker to pull so as not to get shocked. One note of caution: use the correct screwdriver attachment (not a Phillips head or regular, but a star or something- see I am not a handyman but I do have a $15 screwdriver set that just paid for itself 10 times over!).

Remove the 8 or 9 torx screws holding the inner and outer door assembly together (leave the bottom screws in), lift the old handle assembly out, transfer the switches to the new handle assembly, and reassemble door.

remove torq scew from edge of inside of door and seperate plastic inner panel from out steel and then pull up on plastci unscrew 2 screw securing handle and reverse to assemble. Anyone can door this in under 10 mins.

For probably a year I have been using my dishwasher with a broken handle. I would just pull the door out with a little bit of force to open it. Still I was concerned it would eventually break something else. After reading other people's experience with replacing it, it didn't sound like such a difficult repair and the part was less than 30 dollars counting shipping. Incidently, PartSelect ships fast so make sure you order the right part. I ordered the part Friday afternoon and got it the next day! And I didn't use overnight shipping. Sweet!
Here are the steps for repair.
1) Turned off power to dishwasher.
2) Removed all the screws on the inside of the door then shifted the panel over so I could get to the top.
3) The bottom of the latch assembly attaches to the control panel with two flimsy plastic notches and at the top with two of the screws that hold that back panel in place. (For me, I found that those flimsy notches had broken. I was concerned that I would have to buy a whole new control panel which was ~175.00 dollars. Yikes! Luckily the two screws at the top and the door panel behind it seem to be holding it in place.)
4) There are two pairs of metal prongs that plug into a white connectors on either side of the latch assembly. I had to use pliers to pinch the metal prongs together while wiggling the connector get it unplugged. This was the hardest part. (It would have been easier to just reuse the same metal plugs. Someone else did that and it seemed to work.) Be sure to note which side of the latch assemply the two connectors was plugged in to.
5) Plug the 2 white connectors to the new latch assembly.
6) Lay the latch assembly in place on the door.
7) Put the back panel down over it and screw it in place.
8) Turn on power.

Works perfectly!

First - Make sure electricity to the dishwasher is turned off. Very important for there are exposed electrical connectors in the location where you will be making the repair. Second - removed the inner door liner. Removal is by unscrewing the tork screws around the perimeter of the assembly (when you take this inner door liner/cover be careful because the door weight dynamics change and you will need to somehow put a weight on the door to keep it open. Becareful here the metal of the door is very thin and can be damaged if not careful when placing the counter weight - you will see what I mean). Third - disconnect the electrical wires from the door latching assembly micro-switches. Do this by unplugging the connector from the switches - be advised, the connections are tight and takes some effort to unplug (again - make sure you have turned the electricity off to the dishwasher, there are exposed electrical connectors - very important!!!). Forth - remove the door latching assembly. This is done by removing two screws. The new part that I ordered came with the handle, latching unit and two new micro switches - which made the repair easy. Fifth - Re-install the new handle/latching unit assembly. Reconnect the "plugs" for the two micro-switches (make sure you make the right connection of plug to micro-switch). Reinstall the inner door liner/cover (be careful that the bottom part of the inner liner is properly aligned/mated with the lower section of where the door actually meets the dishwasher itself, it has to be properly fitted in order for the door to open and close properly and not leak). Once all is together and the door opens and closes properly, turn on the power and operate the machine. Look for any leaks during operation.

First, I researched the part on this website and found the suitable replacement part...the number is different from the original Maytag part. I placed the order and the part arrived quickly. Then I used the appropriate driver to loosen the 11 screws that are around the inside of the door. I pulled up on the plastic panel to gain access to the handle and latch assembly and the old handle fell out as well as the latch assembly. I took off the electrical clips(this was the hardest part....you have to pull hard) and re-attached them to the new part. I put the handle and latch assembly in place-they come together as a single unit which makes it far easier to replace than just the handle alone-and then re-posistioned the plastic inner door, and finally tightened the screws. Shut the door and opened to test. Done deal. No problem.

1.Turn of electric
2. Open dishwasher door
3. Remove scres for interior door cover
4. Lift and move the interior door cover to right
5. Use Pliers to pull off connectors of Latch
6. Use Pliers to attach replacement latch
7. Lay interior door cover back on door and line up with screw holes. Make sure you have the bottom lip over the bottom of exterior door by hinges. Bottom lip goes inside the dishwasher.
8. Put back in screws - not all the way and tighten snug (do not over tighen) once all are in place.
9. turn on power.
10. Done!

30 Minutes tops!

Most of the time was spent pulling out the dishwasher from under the counter, as a new tile floor had been installed after the DW was installed.

Great pictures of components on this website confirmed what part to order.

Shut off water feed to DW and disconnect power to DW.

Unplug wire connector to old valve (solenoid) and disconnect water inlet hose. Observe that valve is attached to sheet metal bracket.

Remove bracket, with valve attached. Don't remove valve from bracket. New valve comes with sheet metal bracket.

Remove female threaded adaptor (brass) from back of old valve and screw on to new valve using Teflon tape. That is the only piece you need to reuse.

Attached the new bracket (with valve attached) to DW. Attach water inlet hose. Attach plug to new valve.

Turn on water to DW. Check for leaks. Retighten hose connection if required. Run dishwasher. Keep lower panel off for a couple of days to be certain no leaks develop.

I ordered and replaced both the door gasket (easy) and inner door seal (difficult) to try and correct a leak during operation. The door gasket was easily replaced. However, the inner door seal was a bit more trouble. After removing the inner door I found that the old inner seal needed to be removed and surfaces thoroughly cleaned of old build-up of dishwasher soap residue, in order to allow the sticky back tape side of door seal to properly stick to the door. There also was a plastic cover over the wire bundle that needed to be cleaned. The inner door seal was the exact length, so proper positioning of the sticky back was very important.
Upon reassemly the leak still existed and I was unable to correct the leak. Further inspection indicated that the basic tub/body of the dishwasher might be slightly distorted due to age and may not create seal with door seal as originally designed.
I guess I need to find a new dishwasher, at this point.
A word to the wise: Check to see if the tub/body is still in good condition.

Had this problem before and the part was simply a plastic latch which cost less than 5 dollars. That part has been discontinued and the latch is now the entire assembly. Although the part costs more, the repair is much simpler. Remove the screws from the inside of the door. Have to use hex nut screwdriver. Remove the panel and the assembly is right at the top. Unhook the assembly from the two (2) prongs. TURN OFF the electricity or touching the prong will bite you. Had to pry the latches off the prongs with a screwdriver as the fit is tight. Latch the new assembly on and rescrew the door panel and the job is done. Very easy and cheaper than a repairman coming out and charging $150.00

Remove the racks top and bottom. The Station D seals are at the far back on the tube that supplies water to the top and middle spray heads. Unsnap the old one and snap in the new - it only goes one way! This will repair the seal aroound the tube that supplies the middle sprayer and restore pressure to all 3 heads. Repalcing the screen accumulator is harder. you need a torx driver. remove the little thumb nut on the bottom sprayer and remove the sprayer. Then remove the tube where you just replaced the D station. (You of course could have done this earlier if you were doing both repairs) then 6 screws on the impeller housing. Now remove the 1 torx screw on the impeller and pull the impeller up and off. Remove the 3 screws on the cover and 2 screws on the accumulator. Clean all the old food scraps that are clogging up the works and reassemble in reverse order. Washer is working again!!

First I removed the Torx screws holding on the door cover (two of these screws also hold the latch assembly). You don't need to completely remove the cover but just keep it slightly separated by hand as you do the work. I attempted to remove the connections to the two switches on the latch assembly but this proved to be very difficult even after applying lubricant so I changed my approach. Since only the latch handle was broken I decided to remove the two switches from the existing latch assembly and attach them to the new latch assembly rather than disconnecting the wiring harness. There are two clips holding each of the switches and by pulling them back you can remove the switch. After this was done I was ready to put in the new latch assembly. I removed the two switches off the new latch assembly and have kept them in case a switch happens to fail in the future. I placed the new latch assembly into the dishwasher door and then pushed the wiring harness (with the old switches attached) into the new latch assembly. Take note that there is a "detent" in the switch that must be pushed in as you slide the switch into place or otherwise it won't seat properly. After putting the two switches back in place I closed the cover and tightened the two screws that hold the latch assembly first and then tightened the remainder of the screws. It took a full 30 minutes but that included changing my approach after the harness wouldn't separate easily from the switches.

I had to remove the 4 screws holding the toe panel. Then I had to take out the one screw holding the floater switch housing in place. It snapped open to release the floater and that just lifted out. I put the new float in and snapped the new housing on. I put the screw back in to hold the housing in place attached the two wires to the switch and put the toe panel back on. It was all very easy to do and my first home repair went very well. thank you.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

I went to PartSelect and found the parts pictorial. A replacement motor was listed for 3 series of the dishwasher. The series can be identified by the first 2 digits of the dishwasher serial number. Mine was 22 so I needed parts for the series 20 dishwasher.

According to the pictorial it looked like the motor seals were included with the replacement motor. When the motor arrived, I found the seals were not included. I called PartSelect and they shipped the seals to me with free overnight delivery.

I had no trouble disassembling the wash manifold and spray parts using the instructions provided with the replacement motor and the instructions from the Maytag repair manual that I found online. The motor is removed from the inside of the tub.... very nice. You don't need to remove the dishwasher from under the counter in order to get at the motor.

I made a mental note of the orientation of the faulty motor before I removed it. I installed the replacement motor with the same orientation along with the wash parts. The dishwasher worked successfully.

Thank you PartSelect.