ACR4303MFS0 Amana Range - Instructions

I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!

Very easy. Pulled the stove away from the wall. Used a screw driver to remove the two nuts to release the heat sensor, disconnected the wire, removed the sensor. Inserted the new sensor, plugged back into the circuit. put the two nuts back.
Beware, if the first time you put the oven on, if the error message comes back up (mine did) push the cancel/off button, wait a few minutes, put oven back on. System probably needed to reset. Mine worked perfectly after.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

I removed the bottom drawer,unplugged the Range and pulled it out to expose the rear cover panel. Using a nut driver (a screw driver can be used), I removed the rear panel to expose the Thermal fuse located almost dead center in the back of the Range. Unplug the two wires and loosen the screw holding it in position. Replace the thermal fuse, plug the two wires into the new part and replace the rear cover panel. Return the Range to its original position and plug it in. The job is done in less than 30 minutes.

Slid oven out and took back shield off unplugged sensor took bracket screw out replaced sensor with new one.

This is the second use of Parts Select. First time was for another obscure part for an old microwave, which also worked out VERY well. Both appliances still in action.

First Things first, unplug unit, remove rear cover with Phillips head screwdriver, disconnect, wires from broiler element which is the top, one, open oven, unscrew top screws first, then two at the back, wiggle out element, then reverse Steps , test repair before putting cover back on. Then ta-da, you saved yourself a $300. Service call to the appliance repair guy.

Unplug the stove from outlet so no power going to appliance. Had to use wd on screws to help loosen
Little bit of effort to loosen. Took new element from package. Replaced screws just tight donot over tighten. Plug stove into outlet turned on. Did a automatic clean. Oven clean and baked cake later I am back in business and 63 years. Was quote 240.00 to from a local repair person. When using wd make sure you wipe any drip from before turning on oven.

Remove the old part and install the new part.

Watched video & did just guy in video did. Very easy job & the burner works like new.

1. Unplug the power
2. Unscrew the two screws that hold the element
3. Pull the element out a little to expose the wires.
4. Gently pull off each wire (best done with needle nose) MAKE SURE THE WIRES DONT FALL INTO THE BACK OF THE OVEN.
5. Firmly seat wires back onto new element and replace screws
6. Bake stuff!

After doing a YouTube search. I successfully completed the repair by easily diagnosing the issue with the element.
I watched a video about 5 most common problems with whirlpool broiler elements.
The first being to inspect the element for damage. I found a small section that appeared to be rough and had a raised bump.
I decided to order a new element because the oven is older and it wouldn’t hurt to install a new one even if this wasn’t the issue.
Once the part arrived, which it did quickly, I followed the video instructions. It was easy and straight forward. I completed the task in under thirty minutes. It was very simple and I now have a functional broiler element.

Very simple.
Remove 2 mount screws using a #2 phillips screwdriver.
Pull the element out to expose the 2 wires.
Using pliers, slip both wire terminals off the existing element.
Push wires onto the new element and install both mounting screws..
Done!

NOTE: The existing element showed no exterior signs of being bad.
The damage must have been internal.

The video was very helpful.

Simple-pulled range away from wall, unplug from socket. Removed back panel unscrewed thermoses and replace. Put back panel back on plug in, tested temperature setting before sliding range back on place