AC2225GEKW Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

I took out the old one and put in the new one. For some reason the repair story associated with the ice bucket had nothing to do with ice buckets.

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.

Just plugged it in

(1) Ordered PS371704 from PartSelect! Best advice EVER! (2) Unplugged refrigerator (since the water solenoid on the back of the refrigerator is powered to switch ON the water, you NEVER have to turn off the water!) (3) Pull off the refrigerator's bottom grill. (4) With a small saucer under the fittings, unscrew the black and white tube fitting. There is only one nut to remove on the white tubing side. You'll need to undo the compression fitting on the black tubing and slide off the compression nut. You'll need to MAKE SURE you keep these nuts and replace onto the black and white tubing the SAME WAY you took them off. You'll NOT need to use nut drivers as finger tight is the key. Too hard and you'll ruin these plastic nuts. You should get only about 1/8 cup or less of water during this whole exercise. (5) Cut off the old, broken water nozzle. (4) Find a screw of the appropriate size to fit tightly 1/2 way inside the new tubing (this is to ensure your old and new tubing are connected to feed through the door). If screw is not tight within the tubing, wrap part of a plastic (thin) sack around this screw a couple of times and force into the tubing. You'll, of course, then need to use the hacksaw to cut the head off the screw as you'll be forcing the other half of the screw into the old cut tubing (6) Chase the dog out of the kitchen and cajole your wife (significant other) to push the newly joined tubes through the top of the dispenser, through the door and out the bottom as you will be gently PULLING on this old tubing from the bottom until the new tubing pops through the doors bottom. (7) Once this new tubing is out, you will separate the old tubing and, using the nuts in the proper sequence, connect this new tubing to the white tubing. (8) Plug the refrigerator back in and test flow the water. Check to ensure the plastic nuts have no leakage ... button up the bottom grill ... and enjoy the fresh water! PS> Don't forget to praise the wife (significant other) and give the dog a treat for staying out of your face!!

I had to cut a groove in the bushing to put the elec. wires through it, & then just remove the hinge, put the bushing in & replace the hing.

Bought new cap.

There is a plastic flapper valve that is spring-loaded in the closed position that prevents ambient room air from entering the freezer compartment via the ice chute. The Ice Chute Seal is a simple flexible (rubber-like) disk that just slips over the circular flapper valve. With the freezer door open one can see the flapper valve down the ice chute and one can reach it easily from the outside of the freezer as well. The Ice Chute Seal has 3 notches that make it very easy to remove the old seal and replace it with the new seal. This can be done by feel. I removed the old seal by pushing the flapper valve open with one hand (from the inside of the freezer door) and could then peel off the seal surrounding the flapper valve with the other hand. Once the old seal was removed I slipped the new seal around the flapper valve. No tools required, no screws needed to be removed. The problem I had with frost/ice build-up was solved; there is no more ice/frost build-up inside the freezer near the top of the ice chute. The old seal LOOKED OK but was obviously a bit too stiff to seal the opening against the warm, moist, ambient room air. I was most happy to see that this solved the problem and that it was so easy to do (really less than a minute or two!).

Followed the instructions in the video provided via email from Partselect
However, the part received was the opposite design of the part removed.
It appeared this could be left hand right hand choice of part. Moreover, the button on the switch that turns the light off/on when door is open/closed was not functional due to the part being the opposite of the part I was replacing. I tested the switch I was replacing and it appears this is not the problem. I think the light socket is the problem. I am 69 year old female and capable of doing small repairs, but limited knowledge of electrical so having to troubleshoot by trial and error. Thank you.

Took auger apart laid out sequence as removed parts replace the same way . Parts have to go back like they were removed.

Followed the video exactly as shown from the website. I do suggest using a mirror or your phone to visualize the notch to press to drop the cover.

Needed ice maker bucket for extra fridge. Part came the next day, and worked perfectly.

Work was done by service tech. I ordered the arm for my mom to save time when tech came back to do the job correctly.

I checked the element and the thermostat and determined the problem to be the control board. I simply followed the instruction in the video. Everything went well until the last step, the video said to push the freezer down button. When this did not work I refered to the written instructions which told me to push the up button. That did it. Job complete. The unit is working as it should.

bought new

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!