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This is a replacement evaporator fan grommet for your refrigerator. The fan grommet absorbs the vibration from the evaporator fan motor for quiet operation while it runs. If your evaporator fan is unu...
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This is a 12-24 TT HX 7/8 S refrigerator or freezer screw. It is a little over 1 inch in total length. This is sourced directly from the original manufacturer.
This evaporator fan blade is for your refrigerator, and it circulates air so that the temperature of the fridge is regulated. This model has 3 blades, and is a little more than 4 inches in diameter. I...
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Questions And Answers for ABE20EGEBRBS
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Kevin
December 19, 2022
Looking for a replacement gasket sealer for the refrigerator door! Where can we order this?
For model number ABE20EGEBRBS
Hi Kevin, thank you for reaching out. The compatible refrigerator door gasket for your model is part number PS3487797. If you need help placing an order for it, please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
Hi David, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend making sure that the evaporator fan blade does not rub against something and that nothing is stuck in it. If that is not causing the issue, then you may need to check the evaporator fan motor, part number PS2344374, as it is most likely faulty and may need to be replaced. We hope this helps!
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope