A8210 - Instructions

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

I removed the old lid switch assembly from washer and one by one exchanged the wires to replace correctly on the new part. I placed the new lid switch assembly in the washer using the screw to tighten the part in place. I turned on the washer and after the water level stop the wash cycle began immediately. Friends were impressed I used your web site to determine the part selection by the previous reviews and that I replaced the part with ease. Thank you for an user friendly web site.

Granville County/North Carolina
6/13/2010

Remove front panel. Then remove top of washer, two bolts at front of top. Then remove two bolts that hold switch assembly to top on right side of top. Switch gets pried out. It just sits in with small pins holding it in place. Wire connectors hold very tight. Install is reverse.

First I took all the screws out of the side and back cabinet, then tried to pry off the top, after breaking a couple of clips, saw that the front came off with two screws at the bottom, then removed, then two hex head screws to hold on the top, then lift top and saw that the injector was clogged and leaking out the top. If I had read the repair section first, I could have saved alot of time by not removing all the side and back screws. This would be a simple 15 minute job, if you follow the repair guide. Just cut off the clamps, stick in the injector and holder , reclamp and reassemble the washer.

Once i figured out where it was leaking from(injector hose) it was extremely easy to fix. The best way was 2 screws on front bottom, remove the front panel. Then two bolts that held the top down, lift up and the injector hose assembly was to the left in the back. It took only about 5 min. to completely replace. An extremely easy proccess.

I initially could not figure out how to open the machine so I checked the internet for a repair manual. After getting it open I found the source of the problem. The siphon break was missing the diaphragm and was spitting water when the tub was draining. I did not know what a siphon break was or did. I am non mechanically inclined. So I sealed the top of the siphon break with a sandwich bag and a zip tie, put in a load and went to work. I now know what the siphon break does after it ran all day filling and draining for over 8 hrs. That is when I found this site, ordered the part and received it the next day as promised. It took about 10 minutes to put the part in and close the washer back up. It has been a week now and the garage is almost dry . HA , and my wife wanted a new washer ! This part and delivery was under $25. A new machine around $800 if I am lucky. The ability for me to be smug as long as she never finds out about the sandwich bag incident, PRICELESS !

This happened once before and had I remembered how to get the front door off and lift the top it would have taken me less time. I actually spent more time assessing prior to ordering parts than in repairing once the parts came.

One odd thing - it only leaked when the hot water was entering (if the settings were on cold only no leak - no idea why that should be).

Anyway, this injector and the rubber housing it slides into get old and clogged or deteriorate. I ordered all the parts and replace them - but probably only needed to replace the plastic injector nozzel and the rubber sleeve it fits into.

All good now - no more leaks (until the next time!)

took off front of washer , took off hose clamp removed old hose . replaced with new hose clamped back on put on front cover ran washer check for any leakes. done and done

-determined problem
--verify that hose not clogged, screen filters clean then swapped cold w/ hot and verified that the problem was in the hot valve.
-Moved washer to get access to hot/cold valves
--opened access panel holding valve and swapped wires between hot/cold to verify that hot did not activate when it should
--Used voltohmmeter to verify that hot water valve had open circuit.
--Obtained replacement valve, installed, reconnected water lines and verified that hot and cold water worked.

I used two vise grip wrenches in place of specialized tool that is no longer available. I put the vice grip wrenches on the brake assembly and hit them alternately with a hammer. I also used penetrating oil.

Note, the parts package stated made in USA but the bearings had China stamped on them.

I was lucky to find a youtube video that showed every step. The hardest part was removing the front of the machine only because the screws were a little tough to access. Part replacement was quick and easy. It saved me approx $150.00

The instructions were clear. Did every step. Did 2 loads so far and everything works like new.

The repair was very simple.
1. Shut off water and disconnected the water lines.
2. Removed screws holding water valve bracket to wash machine.
3. Disconnected electrical connections and water fill hose.
Installation was reverse of removal. The directions said to use a small piece of rubber hose that was included in the package, but it was not necessary. Double check for water leaks before finishing installation.

The water valve on the cold side was making noise when cold water ran. I removed the screens but did not see a problem. I ordered a new valve and installed. The noise is gone and the water flow is back to normal.

At the time we did not realize the water flow had slowed.

I'm a 70 year old woman. I followed all instructions provided by "Steve" from Partselect video. The video was very well presented and allowed me to fix the leaking problem myself. Watch the video...you can do it.