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A608 Maytag Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the A608
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Washing machine was leaking
The part I removed from the washing machine was hard plastic so when the flexible hose came I was a little unsure but because of the give and stretchyness of hose it was a simple fix.

Done in five minutes.
Parts Used:
Washer Dispenser Tube
  • Steven from WEslaco, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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pump and hose leak
Easily
Parts Used:
Drain Pump Outer Tub to Pump Hose
  • justine from NEWARK, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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No cold water -- only hot
My washing machine would only run hot water. Told my husband and we were ready to call the repair man when I suggested we try to order a part. So I Googled "washing machine repair". Clicked on the first sight I saw and 'searched 'no cold water' amd immediately saw explanation of our exact problem. The solution explained that MOST of the time the problem was the water inlet valve. So I ordered the part. My husband put the part on the machine and the process would have taken less than 10 minutes however the clamp was so rusted to broke and that required a trip to the hardware store. But I suppose clamp-life does not exceed 20 years. So mission accomplished and a great big thanks to all those who explained what they did to solve the problem!
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Darla from Loves Park, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Slow fill cycle - Hot water barely ran into tub during fill
First I unplugged the power cord from the wall. Then I turned off the water supply shut-offs at the wall and removed the hot & cold connections at the rear of the washer. Then I removed the two screws that held the assembly in the rear of the washer. I then pulled the assembly out about 3-inches, marked the new assembly to show the proper color of wire for each lug and disconnected the four wires at the lugs. I disconnected the rubber fill hose from the assembly and removed the assembly. Next, I installed the new assembly in the reverse order. It worked fine without any leaks & saved me from buying a new washer. My old washer now gets my clothes cleaner than it has for years - much quieter and quicker too.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Charles from Thousand Oaks, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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smelled like something smoking
took front panel off had 2 screws, propped up washer in front, took belts off with hands and put new ones on in reverse order One belt was badly cracked. I am 77 year old female, if I can do it, anybody can. great service on getting belts too. Thank you
Parts Used:
Belt Kit
  • Sharon from ANKENY, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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old belts slipping squealing, rubber shavings on floor.
Pull washer out from wall. Remove front panel (2 Philips head screws), swing bottom of panel out, remove panel. Tilt washer backwards, lean against wall to expose area under washer. Roll off old belts, roll on new belts. Move washer back upright, replace front panel, replace the philips screws, move washer back to original position.
Parts Used:
Belt Kit
  • Elzo from KALAMAZOO, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer would not run
There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.
Parts Used:
Lid Switch
  • james from york, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washing machine was making a weird churning sound during the wash cycle and was slowly leaking water from bottom.
I followed the instructions on this website to a T. You can take the front cover off and you will notice a small drip from the tub area where the Hub bearings (above the tranny) meets the washing tub. Once you've identified that the leak is indeed coming from that area and not a loose tube. Allow the washer to complete the job and drain the water. Then simply unplug washing machine before starting the process of the repair. It is very important to remember that you must have a spanner wrench before attempting to perform this repair. keywords=spanner+wrench came within two days with Prime Shipping. Also be sure to order the replacement parts from this site. It takes about 3 days to arrive however so be prepared to be without a washer for a few days. Other than that just follow the instructions provided and there is a very good step-by-step video on this site .
Parts Used:
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit
  • Jimmy from FREEPORT, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
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Leaking water inlet hoses.
Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.
Parts Used:
Inlet Hose - 5 FT
  • Helen from NASHUA, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
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now i know the problem, it was the transmission.
well i first put on 2 new belts because they were worn and smoking. the new belts did not fix the problem. you suggested putting in a new pulley. it went against my better judgement that the pulley was defective. well i put in the new pulley and now the real problem has surfaced. the transmission is not working. now i want to order a new tranny and low and behold it is no longer available. well why did you sell me a $99 pulley when that was not the next part to change after the belts were replaced. now i have a new pulley on a washer that is going to the recycle center as metal trash. well on my part i will reward maytag by buying a ge washer now. plus i will not count on using you as my parts supplier.
Parts Used:
Transmission Drive Pulley
  • stephen from E NORTHPORT, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Water overflow
The repair itself is fairly simple. However, being 65 years old getting the new valve back into the back opening of the washer and screwed in was a challenge. The clamp on the water connector hose broke and I had to drive to the store to replace it. You may want to consider giving a heads-ups option of ordering hose clamps to DIYers, when you go to order. Also, the instructions that came with the part was not totally accurate. I had to rotate the cylinders outward to connect to the electrical points. But, my machine is pretty old and that may be why. Otherwise, I am very pleased with how quick I received the part and it was exactly what I ordered. My washing machine is back in business. Thank you
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Ellen from WILLITS, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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broken belt
Layed the machine on it'sback and put the 2 belts on the pulleys,Very easy ,when you know to put the machine on it's backside!
Parts Used:
Belt Kit Belt Kit
  • Ray from Cool, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Not agitating ; top shaft seizing up
Removed tubs per prescribed videos. Removed transmission per video. Disassembled transmission per video. Used heat and penetrating oil to free top shaft. Lubricated top shaft and bushings with grease and reinstalled. Reassembled washer with replacement parts from partselect. Problem solved. My wife loves this washer. It lasted 30 years before I had issues, many of the internals looked brand new. They dont make' m like this anymore. With the self- help videos, and OEM parts from partselect, I'll get another 30, Thank you so much.
Parts Used:
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit Tub Bearing Kit Belt Kit
  • JAMES from Hickory, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Washer leaking water
After figuring out how to open the washer I could not find where the leaking water had come from. I ran the washer without the front cover (cold water) and it didn't leak. When I finally accidentally blocked the intake on the tub did it squirt out inside the washer. It turned out that it would only leak with both hot and cold water combined was the pressure big enough to leak. The place it leaked was about halfway between the intake valve and where it entered the tub in what looked like a small plastic housing with slots. The functionality of this thing is still in question. I call it the Kazoo because it makes noise so you can tell the water is going in. I can see that it also holds back pressure so the washer does not fill too fast if the incoming pressure is too high, but I have my doubts about this. It turns out the intake hose is interrupted with by a jet inside a 3 inch black rubber tube (valve) that extends into the second hose. The water pressure expands the rubber (valve)and makes noise. The way I see it old rubber had maybe shrunk and lost its ability to resist pressure so it overflowed because too much water was coming through. The new piece I ordered was 3/8 inch longer then the one that came out. Maybe a planned obsolence part. (My wife wanted to buy a new washer and dryer at the first sign of trouble.) Anyway the repair was pretty simple. No clamps needed the old one is easy to undo and you just replace the kazoo. By the way while I was waiting on the parts to get here I just throttled the water pressure on the wall so it wouldn't leak. On this maytag washer you take off the screws on the front towards the bottom to start. I did not notice them untill I had damn destroyed the lid. After you remove the front cover there are 2 screws in the top front corners to remove and the the top pops off. They repair is easy understanding it took some thinking. Good luck.
Parts Used:
Rubber Injector Valve Plastic Injector Nozzle
  • Prosper J from Gretna, NE
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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in reassembly, agitation cylce disappeared and went into a slow spin
I put everything back together like video and then did a small wash. The agitation cycle was gone! haha.....it was in a slow rotation and no agitation at all. The video guy seems to turn pulley wheel all the way clockwise till it bottoms out on brake and then he says to put the lug stop washer and screw it in 1/4" to 3/8" behind the tab on pulley and put screw in w/ lock washer. I watched other videos and figured out that was way too much turning on the pulley. I then unscrewed pulley and hand rotated it back on to the point where it barely start to make contact with brake and then I put the lug stop about almost 1/2" back, attached screw and lock washer and gave it a test and wallah! all good!.
Parts Used:
High Temperature Adhesive - 2oz. Damper Pad Kit
  • Andres from MONTEBELLO, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
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All Instructions for the A608
121 - 135 of 480