970-C90702-00 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Remove top panel with large flat screwdriver and 2 screws in back.Remove bottom panel with 2 screws.Release belt tensioner and remove belt.Remove 3 screws in center of drum inside.Remove drum. Remove rear bearing by pulling up on assembly.Replace all parts in reverse order.

Popped in the new door catch! Tightened the hinge screws( which work loose and allow the door to droop. The reason the catch broke!) Also put red Loctite on the screws in an attempt to keep them from backing out again! Working great so far!!!

Remove 2 screws from back of unit, remove top by lifting and pulling up, set aside. Using pliers,needle-nose, remove the 2 wires from switch, then using a magitized philips screw driver, remove 2 screws holding switch to back of unit, replace switch, reassemble everything. 20 minutes, boom, ur done, dry some clothes now

Took apart the dryer, definitely a two person job. Cleaned up a bag full of lint that collected in the dryer (can't believe it didn't start a fire!), removed the old glides and seals, sandpapered off the old adhesive, applied fresh adhesive, attached the glide and seals, waited for the adhesive to dry, reassembled the dryer. Now it's working like a charm!

Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.

A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide. Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.

Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..

(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.

replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine

Open the top of the dryer. Reach inside and remove 2 screws that hold the front in place. Detach the power cord inside where there is a connector. Remove the front of the dryer. That exposed the drum glide where all three nylon guides had worn off.

Peel off the old guide. Clean the surface with sandpaper. Use the supplied adhesive to glue on the new guide. Use masking tape to hold it while it dried.

Reverse the first paragraph to re-install.

Just put the new one in the slot the old one was in

First unplugged the dryer took off the top. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Scraped and cleaned old drum glide and lower basket seal. glued new seals on replaced lightbulb while I had it apart then reassembled. It was an easy job and the wife is now happy again.. Thanks to Partselect.
Mike

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

OK, this is a follow-on repair story.. I *did not* order the lower basket seal when I ordered the upper basket seal... shame!!! BUT, I am now exceptionally quick at removing the front panel - less than 20 seconds!!!

For those who are considering doing this repair, there are more detailed explanations below - my only tip to help do this "quickly" would be to get some automotive brake cleaner to dissolve the old adhesive .. it is AMAZINGLY effective.. The best part is, don't worry about completely removing the old felt when you are tearing it off.. If some is still stuck to the door, it will actually hold some of the brake cleaner in contact with the old adhesive, which accelerates dissolving of the adhesive. Scrape it all off with a plastic scraper, and wipe it down a few times - surface is prepped & ready for the new adhesive + basket seal.. Use spring loaded clamps to hold the seal in place as you install it also.

JUST DROP IT IN WOOOOLA