91136769892 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I unscrewed the burners which was three screws per burner then removed gas control knobs and pulled up range top and un hooked the old module and replaced it with the new one two screws hold it in place and connected it the same way the old one was and put range back together and now it works perfect and saved me over $250.00 and part only coated around $40 with shipping great parts seller and I highly recommend partselect.com very easy fix thanks

Getting the original screws out was a pain, but once I got them out I disconnected to old wires and attache the new wires. Installing the new igniter was VERY easy compared to removing th original one!

Three were simple screw out and replace with a nut driver. The warming burner had a smaller opeining which was too large for the nut driver. Had to remove shielding aroound it first. Simple, job. My mother did the last one.

Followed instructions with replacements. Ordering was not that clear. Was asked the size of the bowls (large, medium, or small, and I measured them and all four bowls measured 9". I ordered 2 large bowls. However, that was not the measurment needed , it was the distance of the drilled hole and the igniter so I was able to use only one bowl. I have saved the other.
Mary Alice Krueger
Washington

Pulled off burner grates, burner, unscrewed burner bowl, removed clip from igniter and wire, then put it all back together. Was very easy, and the stove looks like new again.

PartSelect is very good with amazing shipment times. The kjpart arrived much sooner than expected.

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

Removed old hinges and installed new hinges.
Hardest part was determining that worn hinges were the cause of problem, then ordering replacements. GE website hinge on exploded view did not look like hinges I removed.Thanks to Google I got on to PartSelect.com website where excellent pictures of hinges and one-inch grid confirmed they sold exactly what I wanted for my 13-year old range, the model number of which was not even on the GE website.

Open and slide door upward off of hinges. Removed bottom drawer to access hinge spring. Detached spring, noting proper hole in hinge for reinstallation. Removed three screws holding hinge and removed hinge. Compared new part to old...exact match. Inserted hinge, and reinstalled the three screws. Reattached spring in hinge hole. Slid door back down onto hinges. Done in four minutes flat!

No way to adjust mixer tube assembly so the mounting holes will line up with the holes in the burner bowl. Mounting
holes in bowl should be slotted to prevent future problems.
Had to finally bend the mixer tube mounting bracket enough to get one bowl on. It also made the procelin break
on that bowl because the screw put to much pressure on the side of the hole.

Igighter mounting hole out of position just enough to prevent the burner head from sliding over it and sitting on
the mixer tube correctly.

I solved this problem by fileing the opening slot for the igniter. Even with the igniters being just a little out of
alignment from the original position they still light well.

I did not get new gaskets for the burner bowl but would reccommend that you get them.

First I elevated range top, then removed cracked electride from connector pin. Installed new electrode and lowered range top and all was fine.

Lifted the door off the hinges, unhooked the spring from each hinge, unscrewed 3 Phillips head screws from the face plate of each hinge and removed the hinge assemblies . Hinges went in the way they came out; easy shmeasy. Took less than 15 minutes and the door is like new.

ordered parts WB21X5301 oven sensor and 2 WB1X681 screws mine were bad highly recommended slid my stove out also a good time to clean all the years of junk behind it removed screws mine were bad unplug the connector slide the sensor cable through the hole and u are good after cleaning be hind stove slide back into spot reinstall power and code went away tested different temps with temp gauge and keypad and we were good

Not sure how common broken springs on Kenmore ranges or any other brand are, but both springs broke on my Kenmore oven door. When both springs break the door free falls to the open position which is dangerous. Replacement part number was unavailable so I found a spring the same length and diameter on the site. I then called Parts online and asked if they thought the replacement spring would work. They were quite helpful and said they said it should work. Upon arrive of the springs I pulled the bottom drawer under the oven totally out to gain access to the broken springs. The top of the spring connects to the door hinge and the bottom connects to the oven frame. Replaced bottom drawer. Total job took about 15 minutes.

1. Slide oven door off hinge arms and set aside
2. Slide out oven bottom drawer and set aside
3. Detach springs from perforations in stove rails then hinges and set aside
4. Loosen three screws in each hinge, remove and set aside.
5. Remove hinges, threading them out through openings
6. Thread new hinges into stove openings. Align hinge arms with hinge wheels.
7. Align and tighten three hinge screws in each hinge.
8. Re-attach springs to perforations in hinge, then stove rails
9. Slide oven drawer into stove and door into hinge arms

Called in and talked to someone and he look yup what he thought was correct but after i got them theywere wrong so i sent them back for a full refund minus 9.90 freight. I still need to figure out what i need for my 27 inch wall oven. Please help. Thanks