91136669092 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I replaced the igniter under the knob.

Shut of electric supply. Remove knobs and open top cover of cook top by removing two screws near each burner and replace switch.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

I removed the screws on thr frount console. I removed the end caps and removed the wiers from the control and replased it . I reversed the pross to resamble the stove.

REMOVED 5 PHILLIPS SCREWS
REMOVED BROKEN RT CAP
INSTALLED NEW END CAP
REINSTALLED THE SCREWS
PROJECT COMPLETE

By myself

The top is all glass so I took my time. There was about 12 screws and double sided tape. A lock washer holding the igniter on. It also gave me a chance to clean the hard to get to places. Your price was almost half of what a suppier here and getting it would have been 2 weeks compared to your 48 hours to my door. Thanks again

Followed the instructions

Removed front oven door, pull out bottom drawer and top burner glass panel to reduce weight. Pulled out from cabinet, shut off gas, removed gas line, removed two output gas lines from gas regulator, removed gas regulator, removed input pipe fitting from old gas regulator and installed it on new regulator using pipe compound on threads, installed gas regulator on stove, attached two output gas lines to new gas valve, attached gas line, checked for leaks, and then installed Top, front door and lower drawer, done. 2-3 hours.

the broiler would light once in awhile and it appeared that the igniter was working. But it wouldn't let enough current through to open the gas valve. The nuts holding it on broke off but drilling them out and replacing with two sheet metal screws worked ok. Don't know how that will hold up to the heat though. The wiring was easy to connect ( wire nuts) but the lead wires from the stove are not that long so all the operation had to be done way in the back of the oven enclosure.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. . . ) It was like drinking juice

just look at the door where the screws were. remove them and the rest was obvious. done! whalla ;) I was glad to have found partsellect.com

Cut off power to the cook top and confirm that power is actually off. In my case, this involved turning off a cicuit breaker. Remove all burner control knobs by pulling straight up. Lift off all grates, burner caps and burner heads. Remove two phillips head screws from each burner bowl. Pry each burner bowl up and unhook the ignitor wire. I labeled the wires to make sure I got them hooked back up right. Remove the four burner bowls by lifting them off. Make sure you remember where each goes so you can reinstall them in the right places. Pry up the glass cooktop and lift it off. I took the cooktop ouside and gave it a good cleaning. This plus cleaning around the cooktop and cleaning the burner bowls is what took most the time. Lift the defective switch off and disconnect the two wires. Align the flat in the new switch to the off position. Reconnect the wires and install the new switch on the valve stem. Reinstall the cook top. Reinstall the burner bowls making sure to reconnect the ignitor wires. Reinstall the burner heads, burner caps, grates and knobs. Turn the power back on and make sure everything works correctly.

Repair was easy once I got the correct part. When the parts were listed as small and medium large I thought they were talking the diameter of the bowl. It turns out they are talking about the center hole in the bowl. So I needed one small and three large. Everything great now.....stove looks great and clean.

This repair was super easy. I removed the two screws holding the oven sensor in place, pulled the sensor from the oven wall to expose the two wires attached to the sensor cut and spliced in the new sensor as per instructions. The supplied wiring kit made this splice very easy. I then reinserted the wires and sensor from the oven wall, put the screws back in place tested the oven. Oven now works like new and I got bonus points from a happy wife!