9112WUT Magic Chef Range - Instructions

This is simple for most people - unscrew and remove the bottom oven floor pan. There is the igniter, removed with two screws with a 1/4 nutdriver. However, my problem was that when I unclipped the old igniter, I dropped the over part of the connection, it fell down the hole, through the insulation, to the bottom of the stove where the wiring is. I had to pull out the stove to get to the connection, push it back up the hole to the oven, then install the igniter. My advice: do no lose your grip on the oven wire whatever you do. Otherwise, it was a snap, even for a klutz.

Suspected the igniter, and verified by reading comments on your parts site. The mounting screws were frozen so I used larger screws. Piece of cake! Wa La!

The igniters burn out periodically, light bulbs, and have to be replaced. There are two of them, one for the oven and one for the broiler. To get access to the one for the oven, I removed the shelves and the floor of the oven. It lifts out. Two screws hold the igniter to a mounting bracket by the burner. The wires on the igniter pass through a hole in the back of the oven. There was not be enough slack in the wire to get the connector through the hole, so I had to get acess to it from below. I removed the storage drawer from the range. At the back, behind the drawer is a panel that's held on by two screws. I removed the panel and disconnected the igniter wires. I fed the new igniter wire through the hole in the oven and connected it. Then I replaced the panel and the drawer, screwed the igniter in place and replaced the floor of the oven.

Got the part, changed it, works great. That's all

Shut off power, pulled oven out, shut off gas, removed racks and bottom cover. Two bolts held the igniter on, remove those and feed the electrical connector plug through the back of the oven and replace igniter. Be sure the bolts are not too rusty as one if them sheared off and I had use a pair of side cutters to hold the screw while I removed the broken section of the screw.

Unplugged the oven from electricity. Took off the bottom(Floor) of the inside of the oven. Checked that the new part looked the same as the old. It did. Then I checked the back of the oven, had to take off a cover, and the connector in the back was not the same. I did not that it had the same two wires so rather than send it back, I figured I could make it work. I started to take off the old piece by unscrewing the two screws. They were a bit rusted, one came off the other I had to hacksaw and twist off. I cut the old connecting end off of the old part and the end off of the new part stripped the cover off the ends of the wires, and put the old end to the new part, having also put the old wire covers over the new wires. then twisted the end together and wrapped the in electrical tape. I had to take the piece that held the new part out of the oven the tried to use the one semi-good old screw, then some newer screws, then finally used some new nuts and bolts to connect the part tightly. put everything back together and it worked.

My top burners and broiler were working fine so I knew it was not a gas pressure issue,after reading other peoples oven issues I felt comfortable that my problem was the oven igniter, the igniter was only building about 50 to 75 percent of the normal glow/heat needed, thereby not creating enough heat to trip the sensor that opens the oven burner gas valve. 2 Screws hold a drip pan which after removed allow access to the igniter. 2 Screws hold the igniter in. You need to access the rear of the stove to plug in the new igniter connector at a 1 screw access panel in the center of the back of stove. My oven has been working great since the repair. I would recomend partselect anytime, I ordered the wrong igniter, the diagram is confusing so be carefull , and had to send it back , I got my refund in less than a week. Good luck from beautiful western new york state.

This oven is part of a stand-alone gas (propane) stove. It was purchased and installed in July, 2005. The igniter I ordered from PartSelect arrived as promised. But the connecter on the new igniter did not match the connecter on the old one. I had to either find an igniter with a compatible connecter or splice the old connecter to the new igniter; I chose to splice. Now, I'm not a real handyman, and I'm especially skittish around electricity. But I found two wire connecters (plastic tube-like things with metal interiors). I stripped about a 1/4-inch from all four wires and inserted them into the wire connecters, making sure the igniter was properly placed so the screw holes lined up. Then I used the crimper tool to crimp the wires together. I did a pull test to make sure the wires were secure, replace the now connected wires in their proper place and turned the oven on. It worked! On this particular stove, you'll need a screwdriver to remove the vent cover, exposing the igniter wires. Due to the gas connection in the back of the stove, you can only pull the stove out so far. So, there's not a lot of room to work in the back of this stove; that's why it took a lot longer to complete this job than the wiring inself. I'd say no more than fifteen minutes. Of course, if all the parts are compatible, even less. Good luck!

i took out the new peace from the frame and i replaced into the old frame then i chopped the new plug also chopped off the old plug i connected the wires with electric tap then it got ready to plug in the new peace

removed oven door, removed all shelving....unplugged the electrical cord........unsrewed the igniter(2 screws)removed some of the insulation on back of oven that was covering the wire and plug......disconnected the wire plug...........reversed the process and 15 minutes later I was done............the oven works great.......the new igniter arrived 2 days after I ordered it. thanks

replaced igniter with screw driver

I lifted up the bottom insert of the inside of my oven and then followed the instructions on this site. Originally I purchased the wrong igniter, so I would encourage you to look at yours and make sure you are buying the right part. I am a complete novice. Even with my purchase debacle, my oven was back up and running within 5 days (total cost was $60). Do this even if you are scared of a screwdriver. Just remember to turn off the gas first. Make sure you've turned off the gas by trying to light a burner (if your burners are otherwise working correctly). If it doesn't light, the gas is off and there is nothing to be afraid of. The igniter is far enough away from the gas pipe that I wasn't afraid of breaking it and once I saw how the oven was put together, I wasn't afraid of working on it. And, if you need to return anything, the return policy is awesome.

Removed oven bottom. 2 screws and igniter was removed. 1 screw for back panel unplugged igniter.

I called the yellow pages repair man and he quoted me $450 to replace the igniter. I did it myself for $63 and it took 10 minuet's. I'm gonna get a T shirt that says "Mr Fix It" Next is the refrigerator door gaskets! Someone from part select had mentioned that to take the door off the oven you "just open the door a little and lift it off". that was a helpful hint because I would have been looking for screws for half a day!

Open the oven door, take the bottom out. The ignitor is right there!! unscrew it and unplug it... plug in and screw in the new one! Took about five minutes!! Our oven worked again after not working for a year!! Yeah!!