This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
Having a problem with a funky-smelling washing machine, or one that just doesnt seem to clean your clothes as well as it used to? Say hello to the Affresh Washing Machine Cleaner by Whirlpool. This po...
Upgrading your laundry room? We can help you save space effortlessly with our Whirlpool Long Vent Dryer Stack Kit. Designed specifically for certain Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Ing...
Are you experiencing problems with your washing machine? The Whirlpool Double Water Inlet Valve could be just what you need. This authentic OEM part is designed to ensure your washing machine function...
If your washer isn’t draining properly, this water pump could be the fix. It’s the part that helps push water out during the drain cycle, keeping your laundry routine running smoothly. Made to fit sel...
Replaced the Whirlpool washer water inlet valve. 1. Unplug washer 2. Close Hot and Cold water valves 3. Remove top cover of the machine by taking out 3 screws in the top back. Slide top back and remove. 4. Water Inlet Valve is located on the back left side, remove tubing using a nutdriver to loosen the hose clamps. 5. Water Inlet Valve is removed by removing the screw in the back of the valve and turning the valve clockwise a little. Replace with the new one, connect hoses, put cover back on, open valves, plug it in. 6. Ran washer and Fabric Softener dispenser now works
Replaced door latch after removing rubber seal from tub to access door latch. Simple replacement but did not correct issue. Notified service technician to determine error codes and had to replaced display panel and control module.
1. First I unplugged the machine. 2. Then I turned off the hot and cold water supply valves. 3. With a towel ready to catch the water, I used channel locks to unscrew the water supply hose from the valve in the back of the machine. 4. Next with 1/4" socket I removed the three screws at the top rear of the machine securing the top cover plate. You could also use a T20 driver. 5. Then I slid the top plate back about an inch and lifted it up to remove it from the machine, being careful with the sharp edges of the plate. 6. Then using my fingers I unclipped the electrical connections to the valve, taking note of how they attached. 7. Warning: I wish someone had told me this! Have a small towel ready to catch any water from the valve hose inside the machine so as not to get any electrical parts wet! I got the machine wet and had to wait a few days to let it dry before it would run water instead of just making a buzzing sound. Luckily it did work again. So with that in mind, I took pliers and squeezed the hose clamp to loosen it and slid it down over the hose. 8. Then using a flathead screwdriver I carefully worked around the hose and pried the hose off of the valve. Again have a small towel ready for the hose to drain onto! 9. Once the hose is drained, I removed the screw on the back of the machine that secured the valve to the machine. I don't remember if it is T20 or Phillips screw. 10. Then I turned the old valve counter clockwise a quarter turn (using channel locks to help me) to release the valve from the two metal tabs holding it in place. 11. I then pulled the old valve out and put the new one in following these steps in reverse order. 12. Don't forget to turn the water back on and plug the machine in! Not that I would ever do such a thing...
