7MMVWX655EW1 Maytag Washer - Instructions

My spin cycle was running, but spinning slowly and not drying my clothes. The agitator spun quickly like normal, but the basket did not spin fast. It seemed like something was slipping. I checked the belt, but it seemed fine and it was less than a year old. I was afraid that the transmission was going, but there wasn't any grinding sound of gears. Luckily the hub part description said that this could fix the slow Spin cycle. Over all the repair was easy, but pulling the agitator off was very difficult. I've got a strong grip and patience and after about 10 - 15 mintues of yanking on the agitator it came off. Don't try to use pliers as it will damage the plastic agitator. Replacing the hub drive and reassembly went very smoothly. The old hub drive wore out because it is plastic and connects to the metal drive shaft from the transmission. After years of torque, the hub will eventually strip out. Sooner depending on your usage and heavy duty cycles. In case you don't know, your machine might have the service manual in it on the inside of the body taped to the side. Mine helped me run through some troubleshooting steps and component tests to pinpoint to problem. Thanks Parts Select!

Took the top off an then the tub top an installed the spring suspenders . If you dont take the tub top off it will be very difficult to install .

First had to take the top of the agitator off to expose the bolt down at the bottom of the agitator. Take a ratchet with 2 1/2 extensions to get bolt off had problems so I had to use impact gun. pull agitator straight up, was stuck a little bit, but once she giving her a few tugs, it popped off the hub. On top of the hub, there is a keyway. Use a straight screwdriver and tap it out sideways. Then remove six Phillips screws and the hub pulls out. Clean the splines really good before you put new hub in. Slide new hub in put six screws in. Tighten them down evenly. Put new keyway back in slide agitator back onto shaft. Bolt on,tighten down Bolt, put top agitator back on. Replacing shift actuator tilt washer up so you can get to the bottom side take a nut driver. There’s two screws on the shield remove them that exposes the shift actuator on the side of the transmission. Remove the harness there’s a clip you push and pull straight out and there’s two screws I believe they’re Phillips And it pulls straight down put new one up in there put the two screws back in make sure the plastic tab on the shift actuator went into the tab of the transmission replaced the wire harness, push it back in make sure it snaps in put shield back on,the two screws in,and you are ready. Once you have those parts back on, you have to reset the washer instructions in your manual. It tells you how to do it. you have to do this or your washer will not work properly.

I watched the repair video on Partselect, it was very informative. In the video the agitator lifted right out easily, I was not so lucky. It took me and another gentleman about 4 hours to get the thing out. I watched other videos on ideas to remove, still no luck. Finally I cut the strap off of a carry all bag and was able to get it in around the agitator and slide it under it. After getting it under the agitator we were able to pull up on it and get it loose.
The rest of the repair was simple, cleaned everything, installed new part, and now washing machine is working like new again.

I had taken the time to watch videos of this repair so when the switch arrived I knew what I had to do. Removing the screws to get the back cover off was simple as was installing the switch. No tricks here just watch the videos and your all set to do the job

I watched the video and did exactly what they said to do. It was really easy. The key to the success was in the parts that were mailed to me it had a separate piece of paper telling you to "reset" the washer after doing the repair. I missed this when I watched the video. That was a critical part of the repair which required no tools to accomplish.
I have done 6 loads of wash and the washer has not made any crazy noises and hasn't moved!

Found common diagnosis and instructions on internet. It is not difficult to replace.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!

Tipped washer on its back & tookold Washer pulley assembly off & put new one on.

First I found and reviewed videos on line to do the repair for my machine and when I actually did it the videos made it simple to do. Always look for videos of the installation for your machine or appliance and the job will go easy

Following what the video shows how that they send with your part email, confirmation or receipt!! Easy Peasy!!

I tilted the washer to access the underside and gently attached the vice grips to keep the drive shaft from turning. I then used my socket set to remove the bolt holding the wash plate in place. I then removed the old wash plate and removed the vice grips before installing the new wash plate. Since the new wash plate engages the shaft (not stripped) I no longer needed the vice grips; it was sufficient to just hold the wash plate with one hand while tightening.

Watched a video

I checked on-line to diagnose the problem, then I researched the parts needed to fix it. I also researched and watched a video on YouTube. Once I removed one of the old suspension rods I simply used the hooked end to grab the hooked end of the new rod and used a vice grip to pull it into place.

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.